On the Trail

FLEURY

 

Jean-Pierre Fleury was the first Champagne producer to go bio-dynamic in his vineyards and was originally certified organic by Demeter and Ecocert in 1992. He now purchases fruit from a few other growers in his native village of Courteron, which is about as far south as one can go in Champagne without entering into the Burgundian region of Chablis. Because of the southern location, the wines and the people of Courteron have more of a connection to Burgundy than they do the big marketing companies of Reims. They make dry, serious, and cerebral wines with such a subtlety that is rarely seen in Champagne today.