On the Trail

LA MONACESCA

Owned by Aldo Cifola, La Monacesca is the premier producer of verdicchio di Matelica in the Marche. There are two DOCs for verdicchio—Castelli di Jesi and Matelica. The Matelica is an extraordinary zone—very small, and with only a dozen producers. La Monacesca is located on the east side of the valley and their property gets more afternoon sun than other sites. Grown in limestone soils, the grapes have remarkable flavor, but the key is the inland and upland location. There is a tremendous fluctuation between the temperatures at night and during the day. Cool nights help to stretch out the growing season for supreme complexity in the fruit, which is fermented entirely in stainless steel. The wines have pure, elegant aromatics.