New Direct Import: Catalonia’s Cal Bessó
Montsant is Catalonian. This is my new favorite way to think about this region. In fact, it is my favorite way to think about all the wine from Catalonia—a staunchly unique area in northeastern Spain with Barcelona as its capital. The way that Montsant is usually marketed is as a value version of Priorat, just like Crozes-Hermitage is often marketed as a value version of Hermitage. However, this is not quite accurate—in either case. It is a quick shorthand, and it makes it all too easy to skip over the nuance and the complexity of the wines from the less-famous regions. There is a lot of complexity to be found in Montsant; not just in the terroir, but in the producers and their styles. There is too much to dig into with the little space that we have here, but this is a perfect jumping off point to introduce one of our new Direct Import producers.
Montsant mountains in the background with Priorat in the foreground.
Cal Bessó is the relatively new Montsant project from the Castellví Figuerola family, who own and run Celler de l’Encastell in Priorat, and local grape grower, Jaume Valles. It is based around the village of Els Guiamets, which is located fewer than 10 miles south of the heart of Priorat. Cal Bessó is the name of the family’s home, and it is where their cellar is located. In their corner of Montsant the terrain is not as dramatic as in Priorat, with more rolling hills that make agriculture significantly easier. The soil in their vineyards is predominantly calcareous but there is some granite and slate (llicorella). The proximity not only to the sea but the Ebro River and the mountain ranges of Montsant, Montalt, and Llaberia help mitigate the warm Mediterranean climate. The winemaking is done simply with the intent to not interfere with the expression of the fruit and the vineyards. The wines are aged in stainless steel, French oak, American oak, and Acacia barrels. The family's historic business in the region was growing cherries and plums, to which they pay homage with their wine names.
2021 Cal Bessó "Coret" Blanc Montsant $15.99
Coret is the term that the winemaker's daughters used to refer to their mother when they were younger. This is 100% Garnacha Blanc that is fermented in stainless steel and then rested in used 500L French oak and Acacia barrels. This is medium-light bodied, crisp, and easy to drink. The neutral oak gives the wine a little more mouthfeel and texture than some other Garnacha Blancas. It finishes clean with lingering orchard fruits and minerality.
2020 Cal Bessó "Elvira" Blanc Montsant $19.99
There is another matriarchal connection with this wine: Elvira was the winemaker's mother’s name. 100% Garnacha Blanca from very old vines, 70-80 years old. This is fermented and aged in one 500L new Acacia barrel. The quantities here, as you can imagine, are small. This is a textured and gastronomic wine. Aromatics orchard fruit and white flowers lead to a palate that is full and concentrated, with sappy fruit, a hint of phenolic tannins, and a minerality that speaks to the calcareous soils. This is a Catalan white with a Rhône flair.
2017 Cal Bessó "la Prunera" Montsant $19.99
The Plum Tree is a blend of Garnacha Peluda and Samso (Carignan). Garnacha Peluda is a mutation of Garnacha; the peluda refers to the hairs on the leaves. This is a Garnacha variant that is more commonly seen further west in the Terra Alta region, but here it represents the oldest vines in the vineyard, over 80 years. It is aged in new and used French oak. This is styled to be more intense and full, a little more like Priorat. The fruit is dark, dare we say plum-like, and the palate is concentrated and full. There are floral notes, spices, and minerality (not slate, but calcareous).
2019 Cal Bessó "lo Cirerer" Montsant $15.99 The Cherry Tree is a blend of Garnacha Negra, Sama, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Tempranillo. This is a wine that speaks to the modern history of the region and the experimentation with grape varieties that were not traditionally planted here. I like to think of this a little like a “Super Catalonian.” The first thing that stands out with this wine is how charming it is. The vibe for this is like an easy night out in Barcelona! Bright cherry fruits with darker fruit undertones, fine dried herbs, and spice. Medium-bodied with easy tannins that support a deep core of ripe fruit and those complementary spices and herbs. This is a lot of fun, and a little too easy to drink.