A Fitting Homage: Damien Hugot

Anyone who has met Damien Hugot, either in Champagne or here at one of our tastings, knows that he is full of a good time, and full of lust for life. He saves his serious side for his vineyard, which he tends like a garden, and for his work in his immaculately clean winery. This year he released a brand new cuvée, the Damien Hugot "Hommage 1921" Extra Brut Champagne, which is an homage to his great grandfather, who started making his own wine south of Épernay back in 1921.

This all estate-grown Champagne comes from Damien Hugot's vineyards in sud-Epernay rather than his vineyards in Cramant and Chouilly. Sud-Épernay is among the coolest growing sub-regions in the appellation. The wine is composed of 50% Chardonnay from Monthelon, vinified in large oak foudre, and 50% a field blend of Pinot Noir and Meunier from Chavot, vinified in stainless steel that is aged in a solera-style perpetual blend. The quality-to-price ratio is stunning, and fans and of Tarlant and Egly-Ouriet will appreciate the masterful use of oak here. It is a precise, dry, and invigorating style that stops short of being austere, and the frame of large oak adds a subtle vanilla note to the fresh baguette and subtle green pear aromas and flavors in this long-finishing Champagne.

We drank this wine on Saturday night as the aperitif. I loved the golden color from the large oak cask fermentation and aged solera reserves and the contrast that color had to the freshness and life on the finish. The French bakery aromas in this Champagne are framed by subtle candied nuts and stone fruit. The mid-palate of this wine has medium body, with great compact bubbles and a ton of vitality. The finish is the best part: dry, long, and subtly spicy. This style of carefully grown and meticulously made wine, utilizing large oak foudres and solera-style perpetual reserves almost always costs double the modest price of this Hommage. It is a must try for the Champagne lover!

A toast to you!

- Gary Westby, Champagne Buyer