Château Palmer is easily on many wine consumers Top 5 all-time Bordeaux properties list—including mine—and for good reason! It’s technically a Third Growth, but one that ranks with some of the most well-regarded châteaux in the whole region. Recently, on not exactly just a random Monday night—but as Monday nights go this was not bad—I was lucky enough to experience a deep Palmer lineup and an exquisite food pairing menu. The occasion? It happened to be the only day that is a command (March 4th)—and my father, Clyde Beffa’s, birthday. We had the pleasure of being joined by Thomas Duroux, the Director of Château Palmer. Having someone there from the property is always a real treat, and it gave us a real “insiders’” point of view on the vintages and the wines. The vintages were a collection of some interesting older vintages and many of the more recent “great vintages.” Overall the wines showed very well with only a few misses. The food paired well with the wines and the dinner was finished with a few surprise Sauternes.

Wine Notes and Menu

(with a few vintage notes from Michael Broadbent)

Reception

Krug "Grande Cuvée 169ème Édition" Brut Champagne 1.5L $639.99 97DC 97JD 97JS 96WA 96WS 95WE Very rich and layered in the mouth, great balance, acidity and focus. (++)

2010 Vin Blanc de Palmer Very interesting wine that is not easy to find. 2010 was the first vintage that was released to the market. An interesting blend of Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle, and Lauzet. Only about 2000 btls are produced each year. (+)

First Course and Flight

Wolf Ranch Quail, Foie Gras Mousse, Wild Mushrooms & Black Truffle Jus

1942 – 42 was a small crop, the wine shows a slight amber color, light and soft in the mouth. A bit lean but still a very pleasant wine. (½)

1948 – Our only bad bottle of the night, oxidized and not showing correctly.

1950 – 1950 was a very large crop with uneven quality. The best wines of the vintage came from Margaux, Pomerol, and Pessac. This bottle shows a wonderful balance and elegance. Still some depth in there. Lots of finesse and still very drinkable. (+)

1953 – As far as the older wines go this bottle shows the most power and richness. Great nose. This wine tastes much younger than I would have guessed. A Wow wine! (++)

1964 – M. Broadbent says a “very misunderstood vintage—many good wines from properties that picked early. Big rains in Pauillac and St. Estephe in middle of havest.” High-toned red fruits, very fresh and crisp, lively in the mouth. Still sweet. On the delicate side. (+ )

1970 — M. Broadbent: “A very important vintage for Bordeaux—the start of the Bordeaux wine boom in the U.S. and other countries. Good quality—uneven. Very high Merlot in blend—over 65%.” Very solid wine with plenty of rich fruit still, lots of finesse and a silky palate. Pretty aromas. Very nice bottle. (+ ½)

Second Course and Flight

Roasted Noisettes of Lamb, Rosemary Sauce, Potato Gratin and Roasted Carrots

1985 – Very open and soft, round in the mouth. I found this a bit light in the middle and a tad short but still very pleasant wine. Several people at the dinner preferred this over the ‘86. (½)

1986 – For me this shows much better that the ‘85. More power and depth and concentration. It does have a bit of a harder edge but I found it more alive than the ‘85 and still young. (++)

1988 – A bit of a disappointment. Closed and not showing much fruit. A tad green and herbal. Harder edge. Thomas described it as a little “al dente.”

1991 – I have had this wine several times and on every occasion, it really blows me away! 1991 was not a bad vintage. Bordeaux was hit hard by the frost that year, but if your vineyards were close to the river they were able to produce some really delicious wines. Those include Pichon-Lalande, Montrose, Latour, and Palmer. The ‘91 has almost a Burgundian quality with such pure, ripe fruit and not a hard edge anywhere to be found. (++)

2004 Magnum – This was Thomas Duroux’s first vintage at Palmer. A very classic Bordeaux-styled wine. Right down the middle, nice fruit, well balanced. Drinks well now and should age gracefully for quite a few more years. Very tasty. (+)

2009 – Robert Parker: “One of the all-time great Palmers.” Obviously still a baby but this wine drinks so well already. It is voluptuous, layered and very open, even at this young age. Seamless and wonderful purity. I wish I had some bottles in my cellar! (++ ½)

2010 – A bit of a different style than 2009, but just as spectacular! 2010 from barrel had this fresh, crunchy fruit with firm but ripe mouth-watering tannins. The 2010 is noticeably much bigger and firmer than the 2009 and not as approachable. It still has amazing fruit but with just more structure and powerful tannins. This is a wine for the cellar! (++ ½)

Third Course and Flight

Fromages de France

1966 – M. Broadbent: “One of my favorite vintages–a lean, long-distance runner.” Lovely nose, a bit lean in the mouth, very fresh and alive. Definitely a change up after tasting ‘09 and ‘10. Pretty wine (½)

1982 – M. Broadbent: “Perfect growing conditions produced a milestone vintage–large crop. Many fabulous wines.” A bit of a disappointment for the vintage. Palmer ‘82 has always been a step behind the ‘83. Not as rich as I would expect with a bit of a metallic note. Still a good wine and on its own it would be more impressive. (+)

1983 – I would have thought this wine would show better as well. Seems a bit closed and tight. I am not sure if this bottle is 100%, but I was expecting it to be much better. Good wine but not leaps ahead of the ‘82 tonight. (+)

1989 – Quite ripe and very fruit driven. Lots of red fruits, cassis, and cherry. Aromatic and fresh in the nose, lots of layers in the mouth, this wine is in a great spot to drink now, however there is no rush. One of my favorite wines of the night. (++)

1990 – The 1990 shows very well right now also. Maybe not quite up to the delicious ‘89, but still a really great wine. Fruit tends to be on the darker side with hints of chocolate and plum. A bit broader and richer, maybe a tad closed at this stage but still wonderful. I would like to taste again in five years to see where this wine is at. (+ ½)

2000 – A excellent vintage although a bit overhyped with it being the millennium. Tight and rougher around the edges. Still a bit young. Firm and tannic backbone. Needs some more time possibly. (+)

Dessert

Grand Marnier Soufflé

1928 Climens, Barsac – Pretty amazing showing, bottle was not in perfect condition physically, but the wine was solid. Lots of fruit left, no rush to drink as this opened up even more in the glass and got better and better as we closed out the night. (++)

1949 Climens, Barsac – Even more sweet fruit than the ‘28, lots of life and still very expressive in the nose and in the mouth. Tons of coconut aromas and flavors. A real treat! (++)

- Trey Beffa, Head Wine Buyer