There are so many incredible wines being made in the modern era of Bordeaux. From the 2016 to 2023 vintages, there’s no shortage of best-evers—we just need to give them some time. That’s where the cellar defenders come in: the great wines you open while the others age. These are the bottles you don’t have to think twice about pulling the cork on, but that are still good enough to deliver a remarkable fine wine experience.

I didn’t hesitate when a parcel came my way earlier this year—one that allowed us to offer the 2014 Tronquoy-Lalande, St-Estèphe. $29.99 95TWI at a true throwback price: under $30, direct from Bordeaux. Now entering what should be a long plateau of maturity, this wine strikes a beautiful balance between freshness and fruit, layered with hints of minerality and the savoriness that only age can bring. It’s a testament to how aged Bordeaux can be both profound and approachable—timeless in every sense.

St-Émilion is a magical place—one of the most stunning destinations in the Bordeaux region and a truly special place in the world to grow grapes. The limestone plateau surrounding the village is the birthplace of some of the world’s most compelling and age-worthy wines. While there’s an enduring image of early 2000s Right Bank winemaking that's all about extraction and power, today’s wines lean more toward a transparent expression of terroir. These are beautiful, finessed wines with a purity of texture, a thirst-quenching quality that begs for another glass, and a saline-tinged finish that speaks more to the vigor of the vines than to anything that happens in the cellar.

Malescot has been wowing clients and critics alike for decades, and for good reason. To me, it strikes the ideal balance between accessibility and seriousness: it’s all too easy to pull the cork now, but patience is richly rewarded. And while the style leans a bit more flamboyant than some of its Margaux peers, the wines are always integrated, thoughtful, and beautifully made.