Gilbert Jacquesson

Gilbert Jacquesson is a family house in the Marne valley, now run by Jean-Baptiste Jacquesson. Meunier is the backbone: the Cuvée Tradition is a Blanc de Noirs, the Eugénie a Brut Rosé, and the Prestige blends 40 per cent Meunier with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir around reserves from a solera started in the 2000s.

Years on the lees give the Prestige an expressiveness and that indescribable iron-fist-in-a-velvet-glove quality Gary Westby says he can never resist. It is the house's top cuvée and the one we put in front of people who think grower Champagne is a compromise.