Bond Bolli

I have to admit that I am always skeptical about co-branded products, especially when they have a super cool box. I should know better—the house of Bollinger has a commitment to quality that is second to none, and the 2011 Bollinger "James Bond 007" Brut Champagne exceeded my expectations in every regard.

2011 was indeed a wet and challenging year, but some producers have already surprised the other Champagne lovers of the world with some truly excellent vintage wines and me. The Memoire de Vigne from Michel Arnould, the straight vintage from Launois and the Egrot pop to mind immediately. But this Champagne is the best that I have had yet from this vintage, and I think better even than some of the good 12s that I have had.

Bollinger released this wine to mark a 40-year partnership with the James Bond films and the release of the 25th Bond film in the series, No Time to Die. They pulled out all the stops with the selection on this; it is 100% Ay grand cru, all barrel fermented and aged on corks on the lees for seven years. When I tasted it, I immediately wondered if some of the Vieilles Vignes Françaises were declassified into this cuvée. The black cherry authority of the Pinot Noir is brought up by the barrel fermentation on the nose and in the mouth, but the back end is so clean and driven that the finish seems almost blanc de blanc-like. That is the power of Ay, the chalkiest of all the terroirs for Pinot Noir!

This is a must for fans of Bond for sure, but fans of serious Pinot Noir Champagne should take note. This is much more than a marketing stunt. This might be the best blanc de noirs that we have on the shelf.

A toast to you!

Gary Westby