Rat

You are imaginative, charming, and truly generous to the person you love. However, you have a tendency to be quick-tempered and overly critical. You are also inclined to be somewhat of an opportunist. Born under this sign, you should be happy in sales or as a writer, critic, or publicist. Some Rats: Shakespeare, Mozart, Churchill, Washington, Truman Capote.

—The Peking Gourmet Inn placemat, as quoted in Mission Street Food

Today is Lunar New Year, and it kicks off the Year of the Metal Rat. According to the Internet, we’re all in for wealth and new beginnings. Gàn bēi (干杯)!*

I love the traditions of the Chinese New Year—parades, dragons, firecrackers, red envelopes filled with money. But of course the most intriguing to me as a food lover is the big New Year’s feast. Family members from all around travel to celebrate together. Though there’s no set traditional menu, there are dishes that you’ll commonly see: dumplings, whole fish, spring rolls, and hot pot—and each is supposed to bring you good luck in one area of your life or another. Fish head and tails are not eaten—for luck, of course.

Wisely, there’s also always wine on the New Year table, though it often leans more toward a baijiu wine from fermented sorghum. We have an excellent example of baijiu wine, but if you’re interested in something made from grapes, you’ll have to be a bit strategic to find the right pairing. You need a bottle that can handle spice, and that can handle bold flavors. As much as I may love Pinot, put it away. Same goes for big, tannic reds. Don’t even look at Nebbiolo. You want an aromatic white or a low-tannin red. You want substantial acidity, and maybe a pinch of residual sugar. You don’t want tannins; you don’t want a lot of oak imprint; you don’t want a lithe daffodil that will shrink from a challenge. You want a white with something to say! Never fear, we’ve chosen a few beautiful bottles that’ll pair with all the luckiest foods, whether it be Chinese take-out or that whole Peking duck you plan to roast.

2017 Pierre Sparr Gewürztraminer Grande Reserve Alsace $17.99

Gewurtztraminer is a great wine to pair with Chinese food, and where better to look for one but Alsace? Sandwiched between France and Germany, with a wine tradition that draws from both countries, it’s home to voluptuous, aromatic wines, with brilliant fresh acidity. The Pierre Sparr is a fantastic example, finishing dry, but providing ample volume and texture and tropical aromatics and spice along the way.

Launois "Cuvée Reserve" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne $34.99

Champagne goes with all foods. It just does. It’s magic. I can’t think of a food pairing that would not benefit from a glass of Champagne (our Champagne Liaison, Diana, says cake and Brut aren’t the best match, but what about cake and Demi-Sec? Case closed.). This is a crisp Blanc de Blancs from one of our favorite Direct Import grower-producers, and it’s a bottle that we usually sell out of in short order because it has amassed so many fans over the years. Bernard and daughter Severine own excellent vineyards in Mesnil, which is also home to Krug’s Clos de Mesnil. And they generally harvest after other growers, up to ten days, to allow their grapes to develop more richness. It’s all grand cru, estate-grown fruit, and it comes in under $35! Crisp, gorgeous backbone, but creamy and deep on the palate. Always a crowd pleaser!

2011 Trimbach "Cuvée Frédéric Émile" Riesling Alsace $69.99

Riesling is a classic pairing with spicy food. The combo of round, slightly sweet fruit aromas and searing acidity is the perfect foil for spice and exotic flavors. We’re back in Alsace for this bottle—but with good reason: Alsace is uniquely protected from wind and rain, and it has very sunny, cold climate. All those conditions add up to ripe, sun-kissed wines with racing acidity. The Cuvée Frédéric Émile is the signature wine of Trimbach, and I’m so smitten with everything they make. The fruit comes from two grand cru sites and sees a long, leisurely hang time on the vine, contributing to a luscious texture. Even with 9 years of age, it still maintains that bright acidity we all love Riesling for. This shows notes of candied orange peel, marzapan, and baking spice.

2017 Domaine Vincent Carême Vouvray Sec $24.99

Chenin is a such a wonderful grape—medium- to full-bodied, round, peachy with flinty notes and high acid—and its very best iteration is from the Loire Valley. Vincent Carême is an organic producer in Vouvray, north of the Loire River in the Touraine district. This is a seductive bottle, with peach blossoms leading to a juicy mouthfeel and that signature high-acid zing. It is not sweet, but there’s a rich texture. Crab Rangoon would be darn delicious with this.

Any of these bottles would be gangbusters with your New Year meal, and, I have no doubt, bring you ample luck. Happy New Year!

- Kate Soto

*Cheers!