Ridge Vineyards: History in a Bottle with a Beautiful Future

On this day 45 years ago, California wine became A Thing. People had been making wine in California, on and off (ahem, Prohibition) for a century, but it wasn’t until a set of wines was put in front of French wine critics in 1976—and beat out top-tier French wines—that California earned a place on the world’s wine stage. The event was called the Judgement of Paris, and it’s an undeniably historic moment for California.

To celebrate this day, we’d like to pay tribute to one of our very favorite California wineries, one whose 1971 Monte Bello came in fifth place in 1976, and whose 1971 Monte Bello came in first place 30 years later at the rematch—Ridge Vineyards. Our Domestic Buyer, Kaj Stromer, recently attended a Zoom tasting of Ridge’s spring releases, and he left thoroughly impressed. Here’s his recap:

Ridge Vineyards: Making Exceptional Single-Vineyard Wines Since 1962

In preparation for their 2021 spring releases, Ridge Vineyards hosted a virtual talk and tasting via Zoom. Head Winemaker and COO John Olney; VP of Vineyard Operations David Gates; President David Amadia; and co-founder Paul Draper took turns telling us about the wines and the history of each bottling. For fans of this estate, it was truly a memorable experience listening to the collective experience and wisdom of these accomplished wine makers. Of course, as far as wine royalty goes, few can compare with the legend that is Paul Draper. 

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Part of what makes these wines so compelling is this winery’s ethos and approach to winemaking, which they call "pre-industrial.” Their philosophy comes from the techniques used in the finest 19th-century California wineries and Bordeaux châteaux. They renounce the use of modern additives and industrial winemaking practices that interfere with the distinctive qualities of a fine vineyard and mask—rather than improve—the character of the wine. The result is an extraordinary collection of wines, all true to their place of origin. Plus, they just taste really good. 

The esteemed panel walked us through tasting each of the following wines.   

2019 Ridge Vineyards "Estate" Santa Cruz Mountains Chardonnay $49.99
After tasting this wine, I was stunned to learn that Ridge is not known for Chardonnay. Somehow this estate-bottled wine has flown under the radar, yet they've been bottling it since 1962. It's aged in mostly used American oak and the balance French oak. They moved to a concentration of American oak after years of figuring out the right cooperage and how to properly integrate it. Ultimately, it's perfectly integrated into the wine. To be clear, this is not an oak-driven wine, but the regimen gives the wine elegance and complexity and a long, creamy finish. While savory and succulent now, this wine has the track record to age for vintages to come. An absolute gem.  

2019 Ridge Vineyards "Three Valleys" Sonoma County Red $24.99
Several of us agreed this was the sleeper of the group. Always a solid performer, the 2019 showed especially well in this daunting lineup. Ridge has blended 73% Zinfandel, 13% Petite Sirah, 10% Carignane, 3% Mataro, and 1% Alicante Bouschet. The Three Valleys bottling is about blending, and they draw from esteemed vineyards in Dry Creek, Sonoma, and Alexander Valley. Zinfandel is the driver here, but the Carignane asserts itself by adding bright fruit and acidity. The splash of Petite Sirah adds heft, spice, and a touch of mystery. This is a real charmer. 

2018/9 Ridge Vineyards "Dusi Ranch" Paso Robles Zinfandel
Paso Robles is known for a handful of prestige "old-vine" vineyards. Among the most admired and sought after is the Benito Dusi Ranch. This vineyard was originally planted in 1922, and 1967 was the first bottling from Ridge. This is 100% pure Zinfandel. The wine is aged for twelve months in barrels that are mostly one to three years old. There's plenty of forward fruit here but the "old vines" give that added strut of spice and a touch of earth.

2019 Ridge Vineyards "East Bench" Dry Creek Valley Zinfandel 
You might be surprised to learn that this, along with the Paso Robles, is one of the few 100% pure Zinfandels bottled by Ridge. They've been bottling this wine since 2006. The vineyard sits high atop a the benchland that overlooks the Dry Creek Valley. The fruit is estate-grown from organically farmed grapes. There's plenty of the classic Dry Creek cherry here, along with a dash of raspberry and mint. It's a lovely combination.  

2019 Ridge Vineyards "Geyserville" Alexander Valley Zinfandel $37.95
This legendary wine, a standard bearer in their portfolio, is sourced from three contiguous vineyards, which were once a river bottom. The river stone and gravel provide an ideal home for a variety of old vines. The 2019 Geyserville is a blend of 71% Zinfandel, 19% Carignane, 7% Petite Sirah, 3% Alicante Bouschet. It too is aged in mostly used American oak for 12 months. This is prototypical Ridge Zin filled with dark brooding berries, a hint of vanilla, an edge of minerality, and a long memorable finish. This wine defines the category. 

2018 Ridge Vineyards "Estate" Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet Sauvignon $59.95
This is history in a glass. The vines for this vineyard were originally planted in 1886. Though there have been replantings over the years, these Cabernet vines are mostly over 65 years old. What was once labeled as the Santa Cruz Mountains Cabernet has been known as the Estate Cabernet since the 2008 vintage. This is the same vineyard source used for their legendary Monte Bello bottling. The wine is a blend of 78% Cabernet Sauvignon, 21% Merlot, 1% Petit Verdot. If you can only put a few bottles of Cabernet away every year, then this would be a strong contender. The pedigree here is unmatched.  

As you'd expect, this kind of experience can only enhance your long-established esteem for such a grand estate. The vision and drive embodied in Paul Draper lives on at Ridge Vineyards as he continues as a visionary and sage for the current ownership. Never resting on their laurels, Ridge is committed to sustainability and farming their vineyards organically. In fact, they are the largest grower of organically certified grapes in Sonoma County and the Santa Cruz mountains. 

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I remember vividly how tasting the 1990 Ridge Geyserville completely changed my perception of California wine. That memory is etched into my mind and continues as one of the most important drivers of my love of wine and eventually as my choice of career. If you've never tried these wines, I'd strongly suggest it's time to try them. They will expand your horizons. 

 - Kaj Stromer, Domestic Buyer