Riesling Lovers, Look to Austria
The three greatest Riesling producing regions in the world are Germany (obviously!), Alsace (duh!), and Austria (huh?!). Yes, Austria should be uttered in the same sentence when we discuss such great Riesling producing regions as Germany and Alsace. Sommeliers, wine writers, and industry professionals are constantly singing the praises of Austrian Riesling, and the more I taste the more I agree with this inescapable conclusion. What makes Austria such an exciting region for Riesling production is their ability to deliver outstanding value in the entry-level range while simultaneously delivering world-class quality in both the mid and high-tier price-points as well. If you love Riesling you’re guaranteed to find a great one in your price range.
An absolutely unreal value is the 2022 Schloss Gobelsburg "Schlosskellerei" Riesling Kamptal $19.99 91WS, which is a blend of young vines from two of Austria’s greatest vineyards, Heiligenstein and Gaisberg. This Riesling has depth, power, and structure while delivering a wonderful experience for an under-$20 Riesling.
One of the most consistently excellent producers in all of Austria is Bründlmayer and their 2022 Bründlmayer "Kamptaler Terrassen" Riesling Kamptal $24.99 93JS 91VN 91WS is a classic example of Austria Riesling. Notes of petrol and almond skin deftly mix against vibrant citrus fruit and orchard fruit notes. With wonderful length and persistence on the finish, this is a must buy that will introduce you to the experience of what Austrian Riesling has to offer.
Alzinger winery is fashioning some of the most age-worthy Rieslings in the world and the 2022 Alzinger Dürnsteiner Riesling Federspiel Wachau $31.99 93FS 92VN 92JS 92WS is lean, taut, and racy with petrol and mineral notes juxtaposed against zesty citrus and pith notes.
Austria not only excels with entry-level Rieslings, but their higher-end offerings are world-class in quality. Bründlmayer has an impressive portfolio of offerings, and their 2021 Bründlmayer Ried Zöbinger Heiligenstein 1 ÖTW Riesling Kamptal $49.99 95WA 94JS 90WS is a stunner with amazing depth and complexity on both the nose and the palate with petrol, wet stone, and orchard fruit flavors. This wine shimmers with energy and verve, and the flavors just unfurl on the palate revealing a long, satisfying finish.
A great foil to Bründlmayer is Schloss Gobelsburg. They have two stunning single-vineyard Rieslings from the incredible 2021 vintage. The 2021 Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Gaisberg Riesling Erste Lage Kamptal $49.99 95FS 95VN 95JS 93WA 93WE is basically universally loved and there’s good reason—the wine comes straight out of the gate with rich citrus notes, savory green notes, and pepper. Flavor explodes in the glass with layer-upon-layer of complex fruit and mineral notes. It’s a fantastic version of a Gaisberg Riesling that firmly places Schloss Gobelsburg as one of Austria’s top Riesling producers.
Heilgenstein Vineyard is one of Austria’s greatest Riesling vineyards.
Considered to be one of the greatest vineyards in all of Austria if not the world for Riesling, Heiligenstein produces Rieslings of amazing depth, power and precision. The 2021 Schloss Gobelsburg Ried Heiligenstein Riesling Erste Lage Kamptal $69.99 98FS 96VN 96WA 95JS 92WE is one of the best Rieslings I have tasted in recent memory. It is all here, an amazing nose of orchard fruits and spice that seamlessly leads to a palate awash in wet stone, mineral, and vibrant fruit with a long, full finish that reverberates with fruit and mineral notes. This is the height of Austria Riesling, and tasting this is an absolute treat.