"If you want to taste California history, you want to chase down these old vines," declares community icon Chris Cottrell of Bedrock Wines. He shared his passion with the K&L NorCal team this week while seated beside some century-old, own-rooted Zinfandel vines at Stampede Vineyard in Lodi, California. Earlier that day, the K&L NorCal team dug their feet into the sandy soil of Contra Costa County's Evangelho Vineyard as well, which was largely planted in the 1890s and still on original, pre-Phylloxera rootstock.

Chris and his fellow old-vine fans have played a pivotal role in documenting and preserving California's oldest vines, leading to the creation of the Historic Vine Society (HVS) in 2011. The organization aims to establish a factual database of California's oldest, still-producing vines. Chris embodies this mission, proudly showcasing Katushas’ Vineyard to the K&L team—a vineyard from the 1910s that he, co-owner Morgan Twain Peterson, and their team have devoted the past decade to reviving. This vineyard was nearly lost to a prospective owner before their purchase, who reportedly planned to replace the vines with walnut trees for higher profitability.

Old vines are indeed consistently in danger, but not necessarily only from natural predators. They are at risk of getting ripped up for several arguably short-sighted reasons, including the escalating value of land in California and the corresponding demand for housing. Older vines in Contra Costa County are particularly vulnerable to being bulldozed for development now that a BART line and an Amtrak train go by. The Evangelho vineyard has, maybe controversially, been preserved due to the overhead power lines. PG&E reportedly opposes development beneath their power lines, so while the land around Evangelho gets built upon, Evangelho holds steady.

While delving into history may be a wine enthusiast's favorite pastime, it's crucial to question why this matters to all wine lovers, not just the connoisseurs. It can be challenging for the average consumer to discern between marketing gimmicks (like the natural wine trend) and terms that genuinely signify identifiable quality in a bottle. As we sampled wines from old vines throughout Contra Costa and Lodi, Chris from Bedrock explained that while some tangible qualities can be derived from old vine wines, much of their appeal is intangible. Truly, they root us in history. The pruning notches on the vines were made by hands that worked the vineyards over 80 years ago, and we can touch the same notches today. While some may eschew certain wine trends or styles for their fad nature, wines from these ancient vines are the antithesis of trends, withstanding world wars, economic fluctuations, and the pressures of a changing landscape.

Many people, when asked what draws them to wine, will ironically mention the physical drinking experience last. Often, they first speak of the connection to a sense of person, place, and time. According to Randy Caparoso, wine journalist, wines with the most pronounced sense of place and time are often the most sought after. Older vines offer an extreme sense of place and time, often expressing the most typical characteristics of their terroir among their younger counterparts. For those seeking a connection deeper than mass-produced products, old vines are an excellent characteristic to seek.

These gnarled old vines have labored for decades, sometimes centuries, sending their roots often over 30 feet deep into the ground. They draw up essential nutrients, minerals, and water from layers of earth from a bygone era. While they appear as wise as I presume them to be, many argue that these older vines do have unique qualities that can only be bestowed by time herself. Their deep roots make them less susceptible to the shock and shutdown that can occur during the increasingly common heat spikes in California. With better sap flow and more forward-thinking training than their younger counterparts, older vines are more resistant to disease pressure.

Yet, the controversial question remains: do wines from older vines taste different? Some argue they prefer wines from younger vines, seeking more linear and fresher styles. What we do know is that as vines age, they produce the right amount of fruit, learning to self-regulate based on water and nutrient availability. They withstand environmental fluctuations like frost and heat better, resulting in more consistent wines. They require less watering than their younger, more fragile neighbors with shallow roots, and tend to avoid overproduction, often leading to wines with added concentration, complexity, and depth of flavor.

Armed with all this knowledge, it becomes clear why the HVS is so important, and why protecting these sites is just as important as many other pieces of history we try to protect from short-sighted erasure. Beyond California, some of the oldest vines on the planet can be found in Australia, South Africa, New Zealand, and beyond. Thankfully, preserving these sites is not merely a California quest. The Old Vine Registry is attempting to reach farther and crowdsource a global database of old vineyards, aiming for 10,000 entries by 2027. I recently enjoyed Broc Cellar's “Angelica,” a fortified dessert wine made from 170+ year old Mission vines from Deaver Vineyard in the Sierra Foothills. Sharing this wine with friends, I was able to pull up a brief history of the vineyard (linked HERE), noting that enjoying this piece of history, tangibly tied all the way back to 1853, is a nod to those who first put the roots in the ground.

When asked what Chris would most like to share about his deep care for these historic sites, he simply said, the best thing we can do is buy old-vine wines. They may cost slightly more than an entry-level wine, but rarely approach the price of an average Napa Valley Cabernet. And, they always come with an incredible piece of history to share with whomever you choose to pop a cork with. Each bottle is linked to the generations that have tended to the vines, and represent pieces of history that must be experienced to be understood.

If you want to explore some of the amazing wines being produced today from old vines around the world, here are a few excellent selections to start with: