Savoring Sicily: A Journey Through Island Wines

Sicily is probably my favorite Italian wine region. I love the people, the colors, the food, and, of course, the wine. I like to think of Sicily as the original melting pot, the real heartland of the world. It has been invaded and influenced by many different populations and cultures over thousands of years. The wines found throughout the region speak to this diversity with brilliance, and represent some unique and singular expressions. If you have the chance, please join us to taste through the region this Friday at 4pm (San Francisco, Redwood City, Hollywood, Culver City)

This is the only place in the world where you can see Roman, Greek, Spanish, Norman, and Arabic architecture and traditions all come together in spectacular style. Sicily is also a culinary land of African spices and flavors: its cuisine uses raisins, saffron, and other spices as a deeply embedded component of its food culture.  Europe's largest volcano, Mount Etna, is also on this incredible island. It is a magical place where the vine has found the perfect home—and it’s a wonderful place to begin to get to know Sicily’s wines.

We can begin our wine tasting tour on the slopes of the volcano with the 2023 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Etna Bianco $26.99 92VN. Tenuta Terre Nere is one of the most famous Mount Etna producers. It was founded on the northern slopes of Etna in 2002 by Marco de Grazia, who pioneered the revitalization of the region's historic vineyards. The winemakers at Terre Nerre focus on native varieties such as Nerello Mascale and Carricante, as well as organic farming in general (you should try their olive oil: 2024 Tenuta delle Terre Nere Extra Virgin Olive Oil  

Along with Benanti (which we will talk about later) Tenuta delle Terre Nere was one of the first producers to believe in and understand the potential of this unique land. The 2023 Etna Bianco is primarily made from Carricante, one of my favorite grape varieties. The name “Carricante” comes from the Italian word “carricare,” meaning “to load” or “to gain,” referring to the variety’s ability to produce abundant yields. However, its true magic lies in its explosive acidity, which, when combined with the volcanic minerality from this terroir, makes it a wine with incredible aging potential. 

Moving to the reds: Let's explore Frappato, one of Sicily's oldest indigenous grape varieties. Since the early 17th century, Frappato has grown in the sandy soil of Vittoria in the southeastern part of the island. It is notable for its light body, floral aroma, and bright acidity. Try a beautiful example of wine from this grape with 2022 Valle dell'Acate "Il Frappato" Vittoria $28.99 91DC 91JS. Valle dell'Acate, one of Sicily's old wineries, was founded in the 19th century in the Val di Noto region near Vittoria and has been run by the Jacono family for six generations.  

Despite its upfront simplicity and approachability, Frappato is far from simple. It is the key component of Cerasuolo di Vittoria, Sicily's only DOCG wine, where Frappato has to be blended with Nero d'Avola. When they come together, the magic truly unfolds. First produced in Vittoria in the early 17th century, Cerasuolo di Vittoria combines the brooding Nero d'Avola and perfumey Frappato to create a rich, cherry red color. It is lively and has a distinctive personality. It thrives in the region's sandy and clay soils, producing a beautiful wine of freshness and complexity. Cerasuolo earned its protected status in 1973 and DOCG recognition in 2005, solidifying its place as a symbol of Sicily’s rich winemaking heritage. 

What better reason to try 2021 COS Cerasuolo di Vittoria $32.99? COS was founded in 1980 by Giambattista Cilia, Giusto Occhipinti, and Cirino Strano (the winery's name is an abbreviation of its initials). COS is an organic and biodynamic winery. Pioneered in Vittoria, COS led the resurgence of traditional amphora winemaking —COS at one point had the largest collection of amphoras in the world. Their wines offer terrific value in Sicily like nothing else and never disappoint. 

Now, let’s dive deeper into Nero d’Avola, one of Italy’s most unforgettable varieties. This grape dates back to ancient times and takes its name from the town of Avola, in southeastern Sicily. Once primarily used in blends to add color and structure, Nero d’Avola gained recognition as a varietal wine for its bold structure, rich dark fruit, and ability to express the diverse terroirs of Sicily—from coastal vineyards to high-altitude sites. It is often referred to as “The Black Grape of Avola,” highlighting its deep color and historical importance. 

Here is what I consider to be one of Nero d'Avola's best example: 2022 Federico Curtaz "Ananke" Nero D'Avola $36.99. Giovanni Curtaz, a former viticulturist of Piedmont’s famous Gaja winery, brings his deep understanding of the land to Sicily. His Nero d'Avola focuses on high-altitude vineyards near Randazzo in the hills north of Etna. The volcanic soils and cooler temperatures give his Nero d’Avola a refined and elegant expression, highlighting his philosophy of crafting site-specific wines that capture the island’s diverse landscapes. 

Since we are back on Mount Etna, it’s time to introduce Benanti, another iconic producer, and their delicious 2021 Benanti Etna Rosso $27.99 92WE. Founded in 1988 by Giuseppe Benanti, this winery was one of the first to recognize the potential of Etna’s vineyards to produce distinctive, terroir-driven wines. Their Etna Rosso, made primarily from Nerello Mascalese, reflects the unique volcanic soils and high-altitude vineyards of Etna’s northern slopes. Benanti has set the benchmark for quality and remains a key reference point in the renaissance of Etna wines. 

We close out this tour with one final wine from a lesser-known appellation, Faro DOC. Faro is one of Sicily's oldest wine regions, dating back to the ancient Greek and Roman times. It is located at the northeastern tip of Sicily near Messina, the port city that connects the island to the mainland via ferry. Faro was about to be forgotten, but it was revived in the 20th century. The appellation rules require a wine to combine indigenous varieties such as Nerello Mascale, Nerello Cappuccio, with Nocera. This blend makes some of the most elegantly structured wines you can find in Italy. Crafted to reflect the region's coastal and mountainous environs, Nocera in particular adds freshness and salinity to the mix, contributing a sense of balance and complexity to the wine. I love the  2021 Le Casematte "Faro" Nerello Mascalese Blend $39.99, which I consider to be the best in its price range for this appellation. The winery was founded in 2008 by Gianfranco Sabbatino and Andrea Barzagli (former football star), and the wine is an excellent example of this unique blend of grapes, proving that Faro DOC is able to produce complex, age-appropriate wines that are both ancient and modern in style. 

Thank you for joining me on this journey through the wines of Sicily. I hope these selections inspire you to explore more of this incredible island, where history, culture and nature come together to produce some of the world's most outstanding wines.