Masterful Blanc de Blancs from Bonville
The Bonville family is blessed with 40 acres of vineyards in the Côte des Blancs grand crus of Avize, Oger and Mesnil, and make some of the best expressions of blanc de blancs available at any price. Many readers have been drinking these champagnes for decades, as we have been working with them now for over 20 years. Last year, the big boss himself, Olivier Bonville came to our tent events, and many of you had a chance to meet him- this was a rare treat, as he is focused almost exclusively on the viticulture and winemaking, with his son in law Ferdinand taking over the business and marketing side for him. As a group, the wines have scintillating, electric style, with great expression of white fruit and profound chalkiness across the line. He only grows chardonnay, and the few bottles of rosé that we are allocated each year are given their color and flavor from pinot noir made by Paul Déthune in the grand cru of Ambonnay.
The Franck Bonville Grand Cru Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne ($53.99) is 100% vinified in stainless steel and comes from plots in Avize in Oger grand cru. This champagne has it all, the cream and the baguette toast richness, but also the virile acidity and chalky drive on the back end. It is a great aperitif wine- and our founder Clyde is well known for drinking almost our entire allocation of magnums himself! As they say in France c’est trop facile à boire- it is too easy to drink!
The secret of the range for me is Franck Bonville Unisson Grand Cru Blanc de Blancs Champagne $53.99, which they select only older vines in the grand cru of Avize for. It too is all stainless steel fermented but enjoys an extra year or two of ageing on the lees. Just as pictured, I love to serve this with sashimi bowls, as the super Belemnita chalk of Avize has a natural affinity for seafood… Avize was once the oceans bed! The Unisson has fantastic creaminess, fine brioche toast and a core of Yuzu citrus- everything I want in chardonnay from Champagne!
The top end of the range is the 2016 Franck Bonville "Belles Voyes" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne ($119.99) and what an incredible tête de cuvée it is! From one plot “les belles voyes” or “the beautiful view” in English, this wine comes from vines planted either in the late 20’s or early 30’s by the family in the mid slope of the grand cru of Oger. Sadly, no one wrote down exactly when! It is made only in great vintages, and is barrel fermented in 13 barrels, yielding just 3000 bottles for the world. The oak helps open the incredibly concentrated ancient vine chardonnay fruit, without flavoring it with too much vanilla or imparting wood tannin. I find this wine to have a pure nose of white flowers and subtle baguette. In the mouth, the refined bead of tiny bubbles livens the silky texture, while the very pure lime fruit reminds me of a great Puligny-Montrachet. The long expansive finish is as good as they come, showing off the deep chalk character of the site and the great acidity of the 2016 vintage.
We also received just eight cases each of the 2018 “Pur” range from Bonville, all at $89.99 per bottle. These wines, all made, aged and dosed the same, are the best possible lesson in the terroir of the Côte des Blancs. There is one from Avize, Oger and Mesnil, and it is an ideal wine adventure to drink them side by side! Cinnamon and I recently did the range of 2014’s with crab at a dear friend’s house, and the extra years on the cork brought out even more expression from the wines!
A toast to you!
Gary Westby