Anna Maria Abbona: The Queen of Dogliani (and a Master of Barolo)
When most people think of Piedmont, their minds jump straight to Nebbiolo. They think of the regal tannins of Barolo and the perfumed elegance of Barbaresco. But just to the south, in the steep, high-altitude hills of Dogliani, another story is being told—a story of Dolcetto. And no one tells it with more passion, precision, and soul than Anna Maria Abbona.
Dogliani is the true home of Dolcetto, a place where this grape isn't just an afterthought, but the main event. Here, it becomes something profound: dark, structured, and incredibly age-worthy. Anna Maria is its champion. But her story is one of true conviction, of swimming against the current.
The "Bastian Contrario"
In 1986, the Italian wine world was shattered by the methanol scandal. Trust evaporated, prices for grapes plummeted, and by 1989, Anna Maria's father decided to sell the family vineyards. It was the end of a multi-generational story. Anna Maria, however, working as a graphic designer, refused to let it end. In a move of what she calls her "Bastian Contrario" (contrarian) spirit, she quit her job, returned home, and, with the crucial support of her husband Franco Schellino, convinced her father to let them take over the vines.
Her bet was simple: the era of mass-produced wine was over. The future would be about "drinking less, but better." She believed this was the moment for the "revenge of the farmers," a return to artisan wine rooted in honesty and place. She was right.
The Terroir and The Family
Today, her estate is a Slow Food "Chiocciola" (Snail) winner, a benchmark for the region. On the high-altitude calcareous and marly soils of Dogliani, her Dolcetto vines—some planted in the 1930s and '40s—produce wines that are worlds away from simple, fruity Dolcetto. They are layered with blackberry, licorice, undergrowth, and tobacco.
But this isn't a solo act. The estate is a partnership, with her husband Franco Schellino as its "pillar." A farmer by birth and a master builder by trade, Franco's sensitivity in the vineyard is matched by his skill with stone and wood, which he used to restore the cellars at Moncucco in Dogliani and at their newer cascina in Bricco San Pietro, Monforte d'Alba. Now, the next generation—their sons Federico and Lorenzo—are joining the family's work, inheriting this philosophy built on respect for the land.
2018 Anna Maria Abbona "San Bernardo" Dogliani Superiore $32.99 This is the wine that defines the estate, and one of the greatest expressions of Dolcetto, period. "San Bernardo" is a steep, sun-drenched amphitheater, a historic cru that produces Dolcetto of incredible power. It's often called a "vero e proprio 'barolino'"—a "little Barolo" for its class, structure, and depth. The "Superiore" designation means extended aging, which softens its formidable structure. This is a serious, cellar-worthy red with notes of dark plum, black cherry, dried herbs, and that classic, savory, almond-skin finish. A powerful testament to the greatness of this grape.
2015 Anna Maria Abbona "Cado" Langhe Rosso $32.99 "Cado" is Anna Maria’s exploration of the classic Langhe blend of Barbera and Dolcetto, aged for 18 months in a mix of French and Slovenian oak. This is a wine designed to show the longevity and seriousness of these "other" Piedmontese grapes. The 2015 vintage is a stunning library release, now a decade old and just hitting its stride. It's rich and fresh at the same time, with a core of dark fruit, delicate sweet spice, and a persistent, complex finish. It perfectly illustrates the estate's philosophy that all of their wines, not just Barolo, are built with patience and longevity in mind.
2016 Anna Maria Abbona "San Pietro" Barolo Riserva $69.99 This is where Anna Maria proves her mastery extends to Nebbiolo. From their small plot in the "Bricco San Pietro" MGA in Monforte d'Alba, this is a Barolo that combines muscular power with profound grace. The 2016 vintage is, of course, legendary—a year of perfect balance and aromatic purity. As a Riserva, this wine has spent years aging, slowly integrating its massive Monforte tannins. It’s a classic, old-school Barolo with breathtaking notes of tar, dried roses, licorice, and iron. A profound, meditative wine built for the long haul.
From her "contrarian" bet in 1989 to her status as a benchmark producer today, Anna Maria Abbona has always been guided by a desire to "look far ahead" (guardare lontano). Her work is a testament to the power of family, the soul of a place, and the conviction that great wine is, above all, an act of honest farming.