Beyond Assyrtiko
Assyrtiko has rightly earned its place as the ambassador of Greek white wine, the grape most people reach for first when they start exploring what the country has to offer. But Greece's story doesn't end there — it's a nation with dozens of indigenous varieties, many found nowhere else on earth, each one shaped by the wildly different terroirs it grows in, from volcanic islands to limestone mountains to high-altitude mainland plateaus.
This next chapter takes us beyond Assyrtiko and into that wider world: Malagouzia's floral generosity, Vidiano's succulent richness, Robola's racing minerality, Moscato Spinas's rare aromatic charm, and a natural, and a fun Blanc de Noir take on Xinomavro that proves even Greece's great red grape has something to say as a white wine. Some of these come from storied estates decades in the making; others from producers just beginning to write their own histories. All of them are proof that in Greece, the best is far from confined to one grape, or one island, or one region.
2024 Skouras "Salto – Moscofilero Péloponnèse Greece — $19.99 91WA
I have long been a fan of the wines of Skouras. One of my most iconic wine pairings was a bottle of Skouras Moscofilero and grilled fish plucked fresh from the Mediterranean. Of course it was on a sandy beach in Greece, with a warm breeze coming in off the harbor and gentle waves splashing at the sand. That was almost a decade ago, and I remember it like it was yesterday.
Since then, Skouras has pushed the Salto forward — also Moscofilero, but fermented entirely with native yeasts and sourced from a darker, more powerful clone called Mavrofilero. The beauty is definitely present, with notes of jasmine, makrut lime leaf, Meyer lemon and peach blossoms. The Salto is aromatically bold but also racy and dry on the palate. You may not need a beach setting to enjoy what this wine has to offer, but some grilled fish with a hearty squeeze of lemon and a glug of olive oil will at least split the difference. This is still one of my most transportive wines.
2025 Alpha Estate "Turtles Vineyard" Malagouzia, Florina — $19.99 93DE / 92WA
For many people discovering the wines of Greece, Assyrtiko has been the gateway grape. But beyond its crisp, mineral-driven style lies a wealth of fascinating indigenous varieties waiting to be explored. One of my personal favorites has always been Malagouzia.
A little softer and more floral than Assyrtiko, Malagouzia is wonderfully inviting and generous without sacrificing freshness. Alpha Estate's latest bottling captures everything I love about the variety: fresh pear and lemon verbena layered with delicate notes of lily blossom and a hint of jasmine tea on the finish. It is expressive without being overtly aromatic, balancing richness with remarkable lift.
This is one of Greece's most versatile white wines at the table. It's a natural alongside a spread of mezze, but I also love it with grilled shrimp skewers or a bubbling plate of saganaki. If you're ready to venture beyond Assyrtiko, this is one of the most rewarding places to start.
2024 Iliana Malihin "Young Vines" Vidiano, Rethymno Crete — $34.99
Iliana Malihin is a name worth remembering — a young, meticulous producer working in Rethymno who's quickly building a reputation for precision and restraint.
Though these are young vines, there is nothing that is not great about this version of Vidiano. Succulent mineral notes with an oily but lifted texture. Vidiano is highest on my list of grapes to watch.
Sourced from parcels on Crete's rocky, mineral-rich soils, this bottling shows exactly why the grape is drawing so much attention right now — a wine that walks the line between richness and freshness with real precision. Pour it with grilled octopus, a simple plate of fried cheese, or anything off the grill with a squeeze of lemon.
2024 Sclavos "Vino di Sasso" Robola of Cephalonia — $25.99
I visited Sclavos this past year and it was one of the highlights of my trip to Greece. The island of Cephalonia is a monstrous limestone monolith emerging from the Ionian sea. The fractured limestone that makes up the slopes of the vineyards is dramatic, and you always wonder why anyone would go to the trouble to try to grow anything on these treacherous hills. Thankfully they do, and it is this limestone soil that informs all of the wines of the region — but particularly the Vino di Sasso, which translates to "wine from stone."
Made from Robola, it is a vibrant, mineral-driven white. Succulent, racy and dry, this is definitely one of the grapes that will challenge Assyrtiko for top dog once more wine drinkers become aware of it. Sclavos is one of the best producers on the island, so it's nice to drink something so special for such a reasonable price.
--------------------------------------------
2024 Douloufakis "Aspros Lagos" Vidiano, Crete — $33.99 96DE
Douloufakis is one of the standard-bearers for quality winemaking on Crete, and Vidiano is a grape I think more people should know. I visited the estate years ago and had the chance to do a vertical tasting of his regular Vidiano bottling — half a dozen vintages side by side — and the evolution of the grape in bottle was astounding. It's another one of my top picks for varieties to watch.
"Aspros Lagos" — White Hare — is the bigger, barrel-aged expression, and it shows. Sourced from vineyards in the Dafnes region at elevation, where cooler nights help preserve the grape's natural acidity, this version is succulent and full, with real weight and a lovely waxy texture that never loses its freshness — apricot, honeysuckle, and a faint nuttiness that gives it real complexity for the price. A wine built for the table: think roast pork, creamy risottos, or aged Cretan cheeses.
----------------------------------------------------
2024 Domaine Zafeirakis "Microcosmos" Malagousia, Tirnavos — $17.99
Zafeirakis is doing some of the most exciting work in Tirnavos, an appellation better known for its reds — and for good reason, given Christos Zafeirakis's reputation as the man who single-handedly brought the red grape Limniona back from near extinction. But "Microcosmos" is proof that the estate's whites deserve just as much attention.
This bottling shows a steelier, more mineral-driven side of Malagousia than you often find — tighter and more linear, with white peach and jasmine giving way to a firm, saline backbone that carries through the finish. A great everyday white for lighter fare: grilled shrimp, a simple herb salad, or fresh goat cheese.
--------------------------------------------------------
2024 Moinoterra Moscato Spinas, Archanes Crete — $22.99
I visited Moinoterra and met Nikos Stathoglou, whose story is one of the more remarkable ones I've come across in Greek wine. Nikos founded the winery in 2022 at the age of 52, with no meaningful background in the industry — a second career built entirely from passion and conviction. It's the kind of leap that makes you root for a producer before you've even tasted the wine.
Fortunately, the wine backs it up. Moscato Spinas is a genuine rarity — this indigenous Cretan variant of Muscat is planted almost nowhere else. Don't mistake this for the sweet Moscatos you may be picturing: it's bone dry, aromatic, and intensely floral, with notes of orange blossom, ripe apricot, and a touch of candied ginger, finishing crisp and long. A fantastic conversation-starter bottle, and a beautiful match for spiced dishes or anything with a bit of citrus zest.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
2021 Domaine Tatsis "Xiropotamos" Xinomavro Blanc de Noir (Natural), Macedonia — $19.99
This one is a bit of an oddity, and that's exactly why it's worth including. Tatsis, one of Macedonia's most respected natural winemakers, takes Xinomavro — the great red grape of the north — and vinifies it as a white, pressing the grapes off their skins immediately to avoid any color extraction.
The result is a fascinating, slightly savory white with red berry undertones, wild herbs, and a chalky, textured finish that hints at its red-grape origins without ever tasting like a red. Made with native yeasts and minimal sulfur, it's a wine for the curious drinker — try it with charcuterie, mushroom dishes, or anything with a bit of umami depth.