Introducing Dominio de Atauta: Our Newest Spanish Direct Import
Dominio de Atauta: Ribera del Duero's Best-Kept Secret
We just signed a direct import deal with one of the most exciting producers in Ribera del Duero—and it means you get access to pre-Phylloxera old-vine Tempranillo at prices that shouldn't be possible.
Ribera del Duero often sits in the shadow of its more famous neighbor, Rioja, but wineries like Dominio de Atauta are proving why this region deserves far more attention. I’m thrilled to introduce this winery as our newest Spanish partner. The wines are consistently impressive, and our direct relationship means that we’re able to offer the wines at sharp prices, too.
Ribera del Duero is one of the most historically significant winemaking regions in Spain, producing wine for over 2,600 years. When the Denominación de Origen (DO) was created in 1982, however, only nine wineries were commercially operating. In the years since, names like Vega Sicilia have propelled Ribera del Duero onto the global stage, and many now associate the region with lushly concentrated, old-vine expressions of Tempranillo (known locally as Tinto Fino). In more recent years, especially as vintages have grown warmer, winemakers have been expanding to the cooler, higher-elevation eastern area of the appellation, specifically in the sub-region of Soria, to craft wines with finesse and balance—wines that rival the best from Spain, but also farther afield.
Ancient Vines, High Elevation, Striking Value
No producer in this special area of Ribera del Duero is more important than Dominio del Atauta. The winery was founded in 2000 by Miguel Sánchez, a Soria-born wine merchant, who wanted to preserve the old-vine vineyards in the region, many of which pre-dated phylloxera—the average vine age at Dominio del Atauta is over 85 years old, with many exceeding 120 years! The elevation here is high—about 3,200-3,400 feet—and the deep, sandy soils and remoteness of the region allow these old vines to thrive, producing wines with incredible complexity resulting from miniscule yields. This combination of high elevation, ancient vines, and gentle winemaking has resulted in supremely elegant, age-worthy examples of Tempranillo.
Four Dominio de Atauta Bottles to Check Out
2022 Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero $42.99 93VN Dominio de Atauta’s flagship wine is crafted from ancient vineyards aged between 120 and 160 years old. These ungrafted, pre-Phylloxera vines are so low yielding, they produce less than one bottle per vine. In most winegrowing regions of the world, these vines would’ve been replaced decades ago in favor of younger, higher-yielding vines, but the preservation efforts at Dominio de Atauta have created something truly special for wine drinkers—the ability to step back into time and drink Tempranillo clones as they existed generations ago. The resulting wine is intensely concentrated, with a huge amount of density as you might expect, but the high elevation of the area and comparatively cool climate also give the wine an equal amount of elegance. Imagine a master ballerina, graceful and nimble, but powered by sheer muscle and grit. The wine is firmly structured, and would benefit from decanting, but is refreshingly bright on the palate, with juicy blackberry and red currant notes. With 14 months of aging in just 15% new French oak, the main characteristic of the wine is the brooding, dark fruit and fine-grained structure. Supremely sophisticated, this wine offers a compelling alternative viewpoint to a classic region.
2022 Dominio de Atauta "Parada de Atauta" Ribero del Duero $27.99 92JS Dominio de Atauta is careful not to label Parada de Atauta as a second wine, but rather an entirely separate wine made from specific parcels of Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) at the estate. The vine age in these parcels is a bit younger than those that are destined for the flagship wine, though this feels like splitting hairs—a mere 90-120 years of age for the Parada de Atauta versus 120-160 years for the Dominio de Atauta. The soils are also slightly sandier, leading to more dominant red fruit notes of juicy red plum, red cherry and wild raspberry. The Parada ages for 14 months in 20% new French oak barrels, before being transferred to concrete vats for 5 months before bottling. The resulting wine is stunning, with supple, fine-grained tannins and an impressive amount of concentration of both fruit and more savory notes. So elegant and refined, this is a lovely example of the cooler side of Ribero del Duero, showcasing subtle power and a lot of finesse.
2021 Dominio de Atauta "La Celestina" Crianza Ribera del Duero $19.99 91JS La Celestina is another label owned by Dominio de Atauta, crafted from sourced Tinto Fino (Tempranillo) grapes from the nearby sandy soils of Soria and clay soils of Burgos, both located in the cool eastern area of Ribero del Duero. The vine age across both areas ranges from 20-60 years old, and the wine is aged for 14 months in 20% new French oak barrels—an impressive elevage for a wine under $20. Compared to the Dominio de Atauta estate wines, the Celestina is more fruit-forward and easy-going— definitely read to drink now—yet has the power and well-built structure to pair with foods like grilled burgers, pasta with ragu, or barbecued ribs. This is a very impressive Ribero del Duero for a very reasonable price that delivers classic red fruit notes, savory undertones and elegant, fine-grained tannins wrapping everything together.
2022 Dominio de Atauta Albillo Mayor Ribera del Duero $44.99 93VN In 2010, a white wine joined the lineup at Atauta, made from Albillo Mayor vines that are interplanted with the old-vine Tinto Fino. Albillo Mayor is an ancient white grape native to Castile—rarely bottled on its own anywhere in Spain, and virtually unknown outside of Ribera del Duero, where it has been quietly interplanted alongside Tempranillo for centuries. While these were once used to conferment along with the red grapes, the winemaking team at Dominio de Atauta decided that they could stand on their own. Fermented in stainless steel and aged in large format neutral casks, the wine is bursting with ripe golden pear, apple, apricot and lemon oil notes, enhanced by a round, almost textural mouthfeel. Dry on the palate, this wine has the considerable weight, though, making it a great wine for soft cheeses or creamy sauces.