Roc des Pins: The Next Generation of the des Pins Family
Working with a family for more than two decades means you eventually get to watch the next generation find its way into the business. Léon de Pins joined his father Rudi at Château de Montfaucon a few years ago, working alongside him in the vineyards and cellar and learning all aspects of running the domaine.
But like any new generation, Léon has some ideas of his own.
Roc des Pins is his opportunity to explore them, and when I tasted these first wines with Léon and Rudi at Wine Paris earlier this year, I knew immediately that I wanted them for our Direct Import program.
There is a movement happening in the Southern Rhône right now. As warmer vintages have pushed ripeness and alcohol levels higher, producers are taking another look at varieties that naturally bring freshness and lift. One of the most interesting is Cinsault. Long associated with rosé production, it is increasingly finding its way into red blends in greater proportions. Léon has gone even further.
These first two wines are lighter on their feet, fresh and just a little contrarian. One is a deep, vinous Tavel that straddles the line between rosé and light red. The other is 100% Cinsault, taking a grape normally cast in a supporting role and putting it squarely center stage.
This is a tiny first release, and Léon only had a few cases to spare. But these wines offer an exciting glimpse at what the next generation of the de Pins family is thinking about—and hopefully this is only the beginning.
2025 Roc des Pins Tavel | $24.99 Yes, technically this is a rosé, but it harkens back to the classic Tavels of yesteryear—and we're talking a century ago. Dark rosé is certainly no stranger to this region, but Léon's wine straddles that line between rosé-like freshness and the character of a light red.
A blend of 70% Cinsault and 30% Grenache, the color alone tells you this isn't going to be your typical pale Provençal rosé. It is deep rosé moving toward light red, with plenty of freshness but also the structure and flavor to take it well beyond the summer months. This is the kind of Tavel I want with food and one I wouldn't hesitate to serve with a slight chill alongside roast chicken, charcuterie or grilled pork.
It's a compelling first look at what Léon is trying to accomplish with Roc des Pins.
2023 Roc des Pins Cinsault Lirac | $29.99 For years, Cinsault was probably best known as a workhorse for rosé, bringing bright fruit and juiciness to many of Provence's most crushable bottlings. It is also one of the 13 permitted varieties in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, so it has a historical role in shaping the wines of the Rhône. Today, producers are looking at the grape through a different lens, using more of it alongside Grenache to bring freshness, lift and moderate alcohol to increasingly powerful Southern Rhône reds.
Léon has taken this one step further and made his wine from 100% Cinsault.
The result has an almost light-red quality that makes it remarkably versatile. In warmer weather, its bright strawberry and cranberry notes make it a terrific red to serve with a slight chill. There is also a savory herbal note that gives the wine another layer. As it opens and warms in the glass, I find an almost Pinot Noir-like character emerging, but with an even gentler tannic structure.
When I first tasted this with Léon earlier this year, I knew I wanted it to be part of our Direct Import program. For Rhône drinkers who love the flavors of the region but occasionally want something with a lighter touch, this is a fascinating new direction.
Scores: DC Decanter, WS Wine Spectator.