It Could Only Be from Bordeaux
Don’t get me wrong—I adore Bordeaux varietals from around the world. A well-made Napa Cab is irresistible. The brilliance from Margaret River is a sweet spot for sure. Super Tuscans—whether Cabernet or Merlot is the star—are among the most complex wines out there. I’ve had some otherworldly Argentinian Cab Franc and Chilean Cab that are undeniably Cabernet, yet carry a character all their own.
But Bordeaux is where it all started, and it’s where I keep going back to. Why? First, these are wines of impeccable balance, built on subtlety and concentration, refinement and precision. They’ve also proven time and time again that they can age effortlessly and beautifully, developing depth and character over the years in a way few wines can. And while they certainly reward patience, I’d argue that the wines of the past few decades don’t demand it as much—something that makes them all the more dynamic.
Here are a few wines that, to me, speak volumes to that “could only be from Bordeaux” character, along with a few that continue to inspire their varietals or styles worldwide.
Perfectly Aged, Astonishingly Priced
Sure, finding a Bordeaux blend somewhere in the world isn’t hard. But how about a 25+-year-old Merlot for under $25 that’s still going strong? That’s exactly what we have in the 1998 Saint-Nicolas, Fronsac $24.99, an under-the-radar producer from a great Right Bank vintage. Few aged wines on the market can top that—though our 2009 K&L Discovery Series Bordeaux, St-Emilion might, at an astonishing $14.99.
On the Left Bank, we have a bit more Cabernet in the 2005 Verdignan, Haut-Médoc for $27.99, and an all-time best seller in 2009 Coufran, Haut-Médoc at $24.99 (Elsewhere $35).
The Limestone Plateau of St-Emilion
When I think of Bordeaux’s singular terroir, it’s often the wines from the limestone plateau of St-Emilion that deliver such a distinctive signature. From the minerality running through the wines to the resilient vines that drive deep into the soil, to the unique exposure that keeps everything fresh and bright, the best of St-Emilion showcases a remarkable combination of levity and depth.
2022 Canon, St-Emilion $199.99 100JD 100WA 99JS 99VN 98DC 98JA 98TWI exhibits this perfectly—and judging by its multiple perfect scores, a few others agree. I also find a wealth of that character from their neighbors closer to town at 2019 La Gaffelière, St-Émilion (Elsewhere $100) $74.99 97JD 96JA 96JS 96VN 95DC 95WA continues to amaze. And, of course, 2009 Magdelaine, St-Emilion $179.99 97JA sits right in the heart of St-Emilion.
The Classics
While many producers around the world admire—and often seek to emulate—the mastery of Bordeaux’s finest, there’s no substitute for the classics: wines that deliver an indelible character year after year.
The 2022 Pichon-Lalande, Pauillac $249.99 100CK 100WA 98-100TWI 99DC 99JS 98JA 98JD 98VN 98WS is one of those. Even in a bold vintage, it tastes like the heart of Pauillac, with its own unforgettable profile and a stature that edges toward First Growth territory (in more ways than one). The 2022 Montrose, St-Estèphe $239.99 100JD 100WA 100VN 99DC 99JS 98JA 98TWI 96WS follows suit—a regal expression of St-Estèphe and a potential all-timer from this famed vintage.
And of course, no conversation about all-time classics is complete without Léoville-Barton, including their WOTY 2016 Léoville-Barton, St-Julien $149.99 97JS 97WA 97WS 96CK 96JD 96TWI 96WE 95DC 95VN and the stunning 2019 Léoville-Barton, St-Julien $109.99 97JA 97JD 97WA 97VN 96DC 96JS 96WE 96WS.
Getting Into Bordeaux
Château Rauzan-Ségla is a Second Growth and the wine shines in the 2019 vintage.
Playing the classics is one thing, but if you’re new to Bordeaux and want something simply and unforgettably delicious, there’s plenty to explore. I honestly don’t think Jeb Dunnuck was far off with his 98-point rating for the 2020 Bellefont-Belcier, St-Émilion (Elsewhere $70) $49.99 98JD 97JS 95DC—a stunning and refined Right Bank gem that’s already a joy to drink.
Rauzan-Ségla, when it’s as good as the 2019 Rauzan-Ségla, Margaux (Elsewhere $130) $99.99 98TWI 97JD 97VN 96DC 96JA 96WA 96JS, delivers pure Cabernet greatness on a grand stage. For two properties that have been on a heater and consistently ready to go, look to 2020 Léoville-Poyferré, St-Julien $124.99 98JD 97IWR 97JA 97VN 96CK 96DC 96JS 95WE 95WS and the reference-point 2009 Saint-Pierre, St-Julien $129.99 96WA 96VN 95JA 95TWI.
And for a truly luxurious Bordeaux experience that will put a smile on anyone’s face, just open a bottle of 2019 Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien $229.99 99TWI 98JA 98JD 98JS 98WE 97VN 96DC 96WA.