Exploring Washington State Wines… Finally!
Last month I went on an incredible trip to Washington wine country in search of a deeper understanding of the wines coming from Walla Walla and beyond. It was my first time back since before the pandemic, and the trip was long overdue. Four days were packed with insightful vineyard walks, winery visits, large-scale tastings, and more intimate dinners with library wines. It was a wonderful opportunity to check in on some old favorites while also seeking out new producers pushing the boundaries of the current Washington wine scene.
The overall quality of the wines really impressed me, but the diversity of grape varieties and styles being produced was equally noteworthy. There’s a palpable energy in Washington, where regions and producers don’t seem bound to any one dominant grape variety or winemaking style. As a relatively young wine region, there’s still a lot of experimentation happening, which I think is incredibly healthy—and particularly compelling for younger wine consumers who may still be exploring their own tastes and interests.
Another thing that stood out was the sense of camaraderie and collaboration among producers. There’s a wonderful community here. Folks genuinely seem to subscribe to the old adage that a rising tide lifts all boats, and that spirit of fellowship permeates the winemaking community.
Here are some of my favorite wines from the trip:
2024 Grosgrain "Philips Vineyard" Walla Walla Valley Albariño $21.95 Perhaps Albariño isn’t the first thing that pops into your head when you think of Washington wine. But after a glass of this, you’re unlikely to forget it! Grosgrain is a wonderful winery whose exciting lineup impressed me throughout the trip. This Albariño comes from a small vineyard with windblown loess soils over basalt. Eighty-five percent of the wine is fermented in cement eggs, with the remainder in neutral oak. It’s vibrant and dynamic, with great texture, fantastic tension, minerality, and verve. An excellent value, too.
2024 Sleight of Hand "Magician - Evergreen Vineyard" Ancient Lakes Riesling $19.95 I really enjoyed our visit to Sleight of Hand and managed to taste just about every wine they make with winemaker Keith Johnson. This is a winery where art, music, having fun, and making great wines all go hand in hand—just as they should. The Magician is a racy, refreshing, dry Riesling that I couldn’t get enough of. The vineyard sits at 1,500–1,800 feet with very rocky soils rich in caliche and calcium carbonate formations that seem to impart a wonderful minerality to the wine. Huge diurnal swings help retain very zippy acidity. Such a lip-smacking wine!
itä wines was founded in 2019 by Kelsey Albro Itämeri.
2025 Itä "Les Collines Vineyard" Walla Walla Carbonic Zinfandel $29.95 The Itä wines also really impressed me throughout my time in Walla Walla. Winemaker/owner Kelsey Albro Itämeri is clearly immensely talented and making some of the most exciting wines in the region. This wine fits perfectly into the currently in-vogue chillable red category, with a bright, juicy, fresh take on Zinfandel. Fermented using carbonic maceration, à la Beaujolais, it captures the lovely red-fruited, spicy nature of Zin in a light- to medium-bodied wine that is so quaffable it’s ridiculous. Playful and serious at the same time.
2024 Itä "Weinbau Vineyard" Wahluke Slope Cabernet Franc $34.95 A very fine expression of Cabernet Franc from the renowned Weinbau Vineyard. This is very much in a more elegant, Loire-esque style, with heightened aromatics of wildflowers, dark berry fruits, woodsy spices, savory dried herbs, tobacco leaf, and dusty earth. Lively, pure, and beautifully poised.
2023 Sleight of Hand "Levitation" Walla Walla Valley Syrah $49.95 97JD 96IWR Another magical wine—excuse the pun—from Sleight of Hand. The Levitation Syrah is stunning from beginning to end. Blended from two renowned vineyards, Lewis in Yakima and Les Collines in Walla Walla, this is a Syrah fanatic’s dream. The nose is loaded with lifted purple fruits, dark rose petals, pepper-crusted steak, crushed rock, and smoky spices. The use of whole cluster and large-format neutral oak has really allowed the purity of varietal expression to shine. Beautiful wine. Pure class.