Tenuta Roveglia
Lugana from the southern shore of Lake Garda: Turbiana with real flesh on it, a Riserva that proves the grape can age, and a pale Chiaretto for summer.
Tenuta Roveglia is in Pozzolengo, at the southern end of Lake Garda, where the Lugana appellation straddles Lombardy and the Veneto. The grape is Turbiana — genetically a Verdicchio, not a Trebbiano — and from these glacial clay soils it gives whites with an unusual combination of nervous energy and supple texture.
"Limne", the estate's Lugana, is made in stainless steel on 25- to 35-year-old vines: crunchy apple, citrus, white flowers and an almond note, with a mid-palate that surprises anyone expecting a lean lake white. "Vigne di Catullo" is the Riserva, aged at least two years; the Chiaretto is the area's traditional pale rosé, named from chiaro, light.