The Sublime La Gaffelière—A Star of St.-Emilion

“I think it’s the 1955. Yes, it’s the 1955.”  

We all watched as Bordeaux buyer Clyde Beffa’s jaw dropped. He slowly pulled down the brown paper bag that was hiding the mystery wine he brought with him from California that was in our glasses. Sure enough. 1955 La Gaffelière-Naudes, St. Emilion. 

“That was the first year I started working at the winery!” Leo Malet-Roquefort said with a heavy French accent and a delighted smile.   

The octogenarian has made many vintages of La Gaffelière since 1955, but it was clear that this was a special one for him. It was the beginning of his legacy. He spent his childhood walking among the vines, tasting the fruit, learning about the land from his parents, just as his father had before him, and his father before him, all the way back to 1705. It is difficult to imagine anything that can be so indelibly affiliated to one family, but to spot-on guess a vintage that was made over 60 years ago? I suddenly understood a little more why French wine culture is exalted around the world.  

This was the first night of our buy trip in Bordeaux back in April. We were in the famously romantic village of St. Emilion, visiting Chateau La Gaffelière for dinner.  After a tour of the property led by Leo’s son, Alex, we gathered around the tasting table to try the 2018 and 2016 vintages.  

Tasting young Bordeaux out of barrel can be difficult, with the harsh tannins and acidity that haven’t had time to mellow. I would experience this later in the week, but on this night it wasn’t so.  Like many other Bordeaux chateaux, La Gaffelière had recently renovated its cellars and vineyards, part of the constant evolution a winery necessarily undergoes to upkeep and improve its production.  It increased its Cabernet Franc acreage, placed more factors of control in its winery, and maintain an utterly spotless facility.  

As a result, these wines are sublime.  As I watched readers of Wine Spectator scramble to buy the last few bottles of the ‘16 Leoville Barton that had been gathering dust for months in our warehouse, it occurred to me — they’re ignoring another spectacular value.  The 2016 La Gaffelière is a wine with everything a Bordeaux lover wants.  It has a beautiful suppleness, a ripe, sweet core of Merlot with a high proportion of Cabernet Franc, ripe, elegant tannins, and the perfect acidity to produce a long, expressive mineral and fruit-driven finish.  And, just like the 1955, it exudes the character of the terroir and family that still produces it.  All for well under $100. Readers would do well this holiday season to consider this gem from the Malet-Roquefort family.