The Quintessence of 2008
Every year, my father and I celebrate our birthday together by having a wine dinner. This year, we started with the 2008 Pierre Paillard Grand Cru "La Grand Récolte" Extra Brut Champagne, paired with my mother-in-law’s excellent salmon pate starter. Everyone was taken aback by the incredible youth of this 11-year-old bottle, and by the stupendous breed and length. It was a fantastic way to start the party.
This wine is composed of 55% Pinot Noir and 45% Chardonnay from two sites that are now being used to make single vineyard wines by Antoine and Quentin Paillard, both from their estate in Grand Cru of Bouzy, on the south-facing slope of the mountain of Reims. The Pinot Noir comes from a plot called Les Maillerettes, which was planted in 1970, and the Chardonnay comes from Les Mottelettes, planted in 1961. Both are the mother vines for the massal selections made in house at Champagne Pierre Paillard, and both vineyards are just .8 acres. Old vines like these, in a terroir as special as the Grand Cru of Bouzy produce great wines even in less special years. But in the vintage of a generation they have given something truly remarkable- a concentrated, streamlined vintage Champagne that will last for generations to come.
Like the 2008 Cristal and the 2008 Launois Special Club, this wine has amperage not usually found in any wine. At this point, all of that power is flowing from front to back, making this an extremely long, laser-like experience, ideal for shellfish, or even with salmon pate like we had it. That power will, in time, broaden out and turn into a prized cuvée even in the most star-studded of cellars. This is the quintessential 2008, driven, chalky, and super long. The dosage is just 1.8 grams per liter, making this the driest yet that we have offered from this vintage.
I don’t think it is possible to have too much 2008 in one's cellar. It could be that this is the wine of the vintage—only time will tell- but one thing is for sure, it is one of the top wines I have tasted from 2008. In 2028 it will be great to compare this with all of the most famous names, I know that if it does not win, it will certainly show!
A toast to you!
Gary Westby