LeClerc Briant Legacy Lives On with Roederer

Like many of you, I’m sure, I’m losing track of the time.

As our Champagne arrivals are ramping up, I enjoy seeing the new products and anticipating what will be coming in. This, rather unfortunately, also leads me to making more purchases! As I was clearing more room in my tiny “cellar” under the house, I found a special bottle from years past, an old friend, the NV LeClerc Briant “Les Crayeres Vineyard” Brut. We no longer have it in stock, but I know that a LOT of you will remember this producer! My beloved “old-timers!” (No, you’re not “old,” you’ve just been buying our small-estate wines for years.) Speaking of which, I purchased the aforementioned bottle 12 years ago, when our small-estate program was still a fledging.

LeClerc Briant was the second small estate that I visited on my first trip to Champagne. The first was also the first producer that we signed onto our program…Aspasie. I spent my first night in Champagne (ever) with the lovely (and fun) Ariston family. LeClerc Briant had the distinction then of being the largest biodynamic landholder in Champagne (at that time) having vineyards planted in 1970 by Pascal’s father, Bertrand. With the 2000 harvest, they were 100% biodynamic, which was quite controversial at the time. Pascal was so dedicated to natural winemaking and recycling that his highest-end cuvees had labels made from recycled fabric…the “Cuvée Divine.”  I know that some of you reading this remember that!  

After carrying the LeClerc Briant Champagnes for many years, the winery closed due to the passing of the owner/winemaker, Pascal LeClerc, and their beautiful biodynamic vineyards went up for sale. I have to admit that I cringed at first when I heard that they had been purchased by a grande marque estate—but later relaxed when I found out that it was Roederer. Roederer has gone full force on organic and biodynamic winemaking practices, something that we see far more often with the smaller estates. They currently have the largest number of acres of biodynamic vineyards in Champagne, with the addition of some of the LeClerc Briant parcels… 40 Hectares in all.

Roederer’s Cristal will be 100% biodynamic with the 2020 vintage, and the current release, 2012 Cristal, is 70% biodynamic. Cristal Brut Rose, also currently a 2012, is 100% biodynamic. The great 2012 Louis Roederer et Philippe Starck "Nature" Brut Champagne ($79.99) as well as the 2012 Starck Brut Rose ($84.99) are also entirely biodynamic with no dosage (sugar) added. The inspiration for the Starck releases is a “hands-off” style that shows the terroir at its finest. Acknowledging global warming, with riper vintages such as 2006, 2009, and 2012, the decision to use naturally riper grapes has necessitated less-to-no dosage. This is more in tune with the methods used over 100 years ago. We are still very lucky to have the ever-increasing-in-quality Brut Premier ($44.99), redolent of citrus, nuts, pastry, and creme, and the awesome, awesome, re-released 2002 Cristal Brut, which is currently showing quite a bit of citrus and finesse—one of their best vintages ever and it will continue to age nicely in the cellar.

My only regret about my trip to Champagne last March was missing our appointment at Roederer because we had to leave suddenly due to the country shutting down in reaction to the Coronavirus outbreak. I was very much looking forward to being updated about their new projects. In any case, I’d like to thank all of you reading this for supporting our Champagne program. Be safe and have a bit of happiness this holiday season! Don’t forget the bubbles!

Best wishes,

Scott