Our Buyer Team's Champagne Odyssey Begins at Fleury
Over the past two days on our Buyer Trip to Champagne, I have had the wonderful opportunity to do a number of things that I had not done in either Champagne or in the US: tasting samples of unfinished wines according to dosage levels (2015 Louise Brison Brut); tasting tank samples according to vineyard sourcing (soils, less/more sun at Fluteau); tasting vin claire Chardonnay samples with and without malolactic fermentation, with neutral yeasts and oak aging, all side by side. To say that these tasting are informative is to greatly understate the experience. I also had pork ribs and fries at a travelling carnival, which, of course, was pretty much like eating in a brick-and-mortar restaurant with gourmet food, as opposed to the standard carnival hot dogs and cotton candy. Ah, France! You never leave us under-fed. Paleo breakfast this morning for me, not a carb on my plate.
One of the highlights of past few days was being able to go to Courteron and visit Champagne Fleury, long one of my favorites. Many of you have met proprietor Morgane Fleury and are familiar with her enthusiasm and amazing energy. I wish that she could bottle and sell that! I’d definitely buy some. We toured the winery and cellars before settling in for a tasting of the current offerings. There is a brand-spanking-new cellar which is just simply stunning, one of the most beautiful that I have ever seen. The theme is nature and earth, with rock samples for each celestial sign, as well as a large piece of amethyst. This is to reflect the motto of Champagne Fleury of working with the earth, as they are biodynamic. Look at the pictures and you will see the beauty of this cellar. The walls and ceiling are all natural cork!
Champagne Fleury has long been a customer favorite, especially for those of you who love Pinot Noir in your bubbles. This is Pinot Noir at its best…nutty, with cherry fruit, round, clean, and balanced with spice. The Fleury vineyards are composed of 15 hectares, planted to 85% Pinot Noir, 10% Chardonnay, and a 5% combo of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris. They also cultivate yeasts from their own vineyards and are certified Demeter, which is the priciest way to be certified biodynamic. First class all of the way! The estate was established in 1895 and they were the first estate to go full biodynamic in 1989.
Morgane’s brother, Jean-Sebastien, took us through the facility and, finally, into the tasting room to taste the current releases. Like Morgane, Jean-Sebastien is extremely personable and friendly, One of things that stands out about Champagne Fleury is not just the wonderful Champagnes, but, the family atmosphere and comraderie that is present. It is a very intimate winery. As for the wines, it is very difficult to pick a favorite! As usual, the NV Brut Blanc de Noirs is beautiful with cherries and nutty toffee and rich Pinot fruit. It always has that nice balancing spice and minerals on the finish! The NV Rosé de Saignée Brut has a low 6g/l dosage that works so well with its super pretty nose of strawberry preserves. Slightly savory, with dark red (and black-tinged) fruits. Dark cherries dominate on the palate, with the tell-tale finish of Fleury minerality. Plush and clean, all at once! There are too many wines to write up here, but I want to give a special shout out to their 2009 Bolero Brut. A 100% Pinot Noir Extra Brut that is 44% barrel vinified, it has a big dense nose of pastry, crème brulee, and golden fruits. On the palate, it’s mouthfilling, with cream, rich yellow fruits, marzipan, and toffee—all of that kept in check from going over the top by the low dosage. This is winemaking at its best! Fleury’s Champagnes are just as charming as the Fleury family and their staff are! A great way to begin this trip!
–Scott Beckerley