Bollinger’s PNVZ15 Blanc de Noirs

Yesterday, after a smoky day of working curbside with the crew, it was clear that the team could use a treat. We had just received our tiny allocation of Bollinger “PNVZ15” Brut Champagne, a brand new addition to their range and none of us had tasted it. I am not usually in the habit of buying “blind,” but in the case of Bollinger, I know that I am in good hands. My instinct was right—the wine was spectacular.

This Champagne’s unusual name comes from the codes often used on tanks and barrels in the Champagne region, usually written in the abundant chalk of the region so it can be easily erased when the wine is racked or bottled. The PN is for 100% Pinot Noir, while the VZ stands for the grand cru of Verzenay, which makes up the great majority of this wine. There is also some Aÿ, Bouzy, and Tauxieres in this bottling. The 15 is for 2015, the base vintage, which makes up 80% of the blend. The rest is reserves, exclusively from Bollinger’s incredible library of magnums, and the oldest element is from 2009. The wine is 80% from their own vineyards, with 20% from their top growers in these prestigious villages, and it is 50% barrel fermented. The dosage is quite low at 7 grams per liter, but the wine comes across as rather rich because of the warmth of the 2015 harvest.

All of us found this Champagne to be almost Burgundian in its scale and in its excellent expression of Pinot Noir character. That being said, the personality of Verzenay is potent here. For me, this is the most identifiable village in all of Champagne and has a nougat and hazelnut quality here that is beguiling. In the mouth, the spicy black-cherry compote fruit quality is balanced by a silky bead and a savory, gastronomic breadth. This is a rich wine and Stephanie Vidales said that it would go well with lobster. How perfect that would be!

If you love Bollinger, or if you are simply a fan of blanc de noirs, this is one not to miss. They won’t make it again, but instead choose a different village for next year. Maybe PNAY16? We will have to wait and see!

A toast to you!

- Gary Westby