Today is the worldwide release for one of the best of the great 2012 vintage in Champagne, and we are lucky to have an allocation. We had a preview of the 2012 Billecart-Salmon "Cuvée Louis" Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne before today’s release, and. after tasting it in the morning with Clément from Billecart, I knew that I had to make something special to have with it at dinner. This is a Blanc de Blancs that has it all—and promises to develop well for at least a generation.
Read MoreThis past Thursday I was invited to the residence of the French Consul Général for a showcase of the Villa Albertine, a charity that the Roederer Foundation supports. There I met with Frédéric Rouzaud, the president of Champagne Louis Roederer, and he premiered his Louis Roederer "Collection 244" Brut Champagne, which should be coming to K&L soon.
Read MoreThis year has marked my 23rd in my job as Champagne Buyer here at K&L, and I feel lucky to say that it was one of the best for memorable Champagnes. This list could have been much longer than just ten, as I have been treated to so many noteworthy wines over the last 12 months. I have noticed three themes for 2023: large bottles (magnums and jeroboams) account for about one-third of the list, as do pairings with tinned fish, and half the bottles were not vintage dated. The flexibility that blending across time gives the Champenois is not just for basics—a skilled chef de cave can make magic with multiple vintages.
Read MoreIt's that time of year when our Champagne program shines, and this year we have more direct-import standouts than ever to make your holidays sparkle. Recent reloads from a trio of DI favorites will have long-time fans stocking up, while the iconic Billecart-Salmon's current releases offer holiday luxury at nearly any price point. Finally, Champagne buyer Gary Westby's "boots on the ground" approach pays off once again with a pair of new direct-import additions that are sure to garner legions of fans once the wines make it to your table.
Read MoreI don’t think that there are two producers in the U.S. market that can compete with Baron-Fuenté and Gilbert Jacquesson for value. While we have seen big, and sometimes downright gross, price increases from so many of the big names, the prices of these two producers have remained stable at K&L for many years. We celebrate that regularly at home by drinking a little bit more of both of them, and I hope this holiday season you will join me and the staff of K&L in enjoying an extra bottle every now and then. Why not!?
Read MoreEven though I have been travelling to Champagne two to three times every year for 23 years, there is still so much to discover. This May, one of the biggest discoveries I have had in a long time came in the sleepy Marne River town of Port-a-Binson at Champagne Cordoin Didierlaurent. There I met Pierre-Emanuel Cordoin, vine grower and winemaker for this 21-acre estate and tasted his fantastic wines.
Read MoreWe have a new direct-import producer in stock, from the famous perle blanche de la Montagne de Reims—the white pearl of the mountain of Reims—the 1er Cru of Trépail... Up until now, most of their sales have been at the cellar door in France, and this is the first time the wines have been available in the U.S. Since we buy direct from Lorène Petiau, the prices are amazing for our K&L Champagne fans.
Read MoreIf my memory serves me correctly, we are approaching our 20th year since initiating our very successful small-estate Champagne import program, care of Gary Westby! It was an immediate hit, and to this day it still surprises me how well the wines beautifully balance high quality and extreme value. As many of our long-time customers know, the nonvintage bottling from Champagne Ariston Aspasie was our first direct import for this program. Paul Vincent Aristan and his wife Caroline have been with us from the start.
Read MoreWhen I think of being thankful this time of year, one of the first things that pops into my mind is my gratitude to the farmers who feed us and grow the grapes for the wines that make our lives so much better. The first person who comes to mind is Paul-Vincent Ariston, the boss at Champagne Aspasie in the tiny village of Brouillet. He is one of the hardest working men I know, and one of the most patient. At home this year we will be starting off our Thanksgiving festivities with his excellent Ariston Aspasie "Réserve" Brut Champagne $34.99.
Read MoreEarlier this week, the K&L Champagne team kicked off our annual staff summit with a dinner hosted by Billecart-Salmon. It has become a welcome tradition to start off our yearly survey of all the grande marque producers with a sushi dinner at my place featuring the wines of this great house. Christian Esser, who just returned from a visit to Billecart, and Eric Lecours presented the wines and treated Scott Beckerley, Michael Benoit, Philip Roufail, Will Langhi, Cinnamon and me to a great spread from Kanpai sushi in Palo Alto.
Read MoreThis past May I had the chance to drive all the way up to the very top of Champagne to the village of Cormicy. I was there to visit Christophe Boulard at Champagne Boulard-Baquaire, and it had been too long since I had seen him and visited the winery. Now, his wines have just come back in stock, and I would like to share their story with you.
Read MoreThis Wednesday I was invited to dinner at Selby’s by Louise Bryden, head of research and development and part of the winemaking team at Champagne Ruinart. She is touring the West Coast for the release of the Ruinart Blanc Singulier Brut Nature, the first new cuvée to be released by Ruinart since the non-vintage blanc de blancs over 20 years ago. It was a fantastic evening, and we were even served by the Ruinart Challenge winner—Lindsey Young from Selby’s—who had taken the prize that very morning in San Francisco!
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