The Party—en Magnum!

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Last week, for Bastille Day, a group of us from K&L Redwood City went to Left Bank restaurant in Menlo Park to celebrate the French national holiday. It was a great excuse to eat steak frites and drink some good, aged Bordeaux in the middle of the week. Whenever we have a group together (more than 2?) there are usually magnums involved, and this great evening was no exception.

The benefits of drinking Bordeaux from magnum are many. The first is convenience: you do not have to mess around opening extra bottles. I also love the fact that everyone gets to drink from the same bottle—it goes around the table nicely so one can focus on the fun rather than short pouring too many different wines. Best of all, with older wine, they develop better in the larger bottle—there is the same amount of air contact with a magnum as there is for a bottle, but double the amount of wine to absorb the oxygen.

The first to pour around the table was the 2007 Malescasse, Haut Médoc 1.5L which must be the best bargain in the entire store for people who love an earthy, old-school style of claret. This château sits inland from Margaux in Lamarque and benefits from a gravel soil across the 40-hectare property. It is composed of approximately 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 43% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petite Verdot. This medium-to-full-bodied Bordeaux was full of gamey funk and gravely earth, with medium-to-full body and a good, fresh finish. We did not decant our magnum, which was a mistake; the second glass was much better than the first and showed more cassis power and better balance.

Our second magnum was the 1997 Fourcas-Dupré Listrac 1.5L, and we were all super impressed by the purity and vivaciousness of this now 24-year-old wine. I think the magnum format really made its magic with this one! With my perfectly cooked skirt steak with Roquefort butter, this wine was just sensational. This nearly 50 hectare property sits atop a veritable mountain by Bordeaux standards, a nearly 130-foot peak! Situated inland between Margaux and St. Julien, it shares the outstanding gravel terroir of the Médoc. It is composed of approximately 44% Cabernet Sauvignon, 44% Merlot, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. I loved the ruby red color that had just a hint of brick-like rust around the edge, and the generous, savory red currant nose. This was medium-to-light-bodied claret, my favorite style, and acted as a second knife for my lovely skirt steak. I found not only more red fruit in the mouth, but also clean gravelly drive and vivacious acidity. What a treat!

A toast to you!

- Gary Westby, Champagne Buyer (and Aged Claret Enthusiast)