Bordeaux’s Brilliant 2004 Brillette
Last night, Cinnamon and I enjoyed the perfectly aged 2004 Brillette, Moulis with a big cowboy steak, diced potatoes, and a steakhouse salad. Now that my case is safely in my cellar, I can tell you about this wine: it’s the best deal in aged Bordeaux to come along in some time here at K&L.
Château Brillette is from the “insider-secret” region of Moulis, which is just north of Margaux and south of St-Julien. They have 111 acres of vineyards, planted to 49% Cabernet Sauvignon, 47% Merlot, and 4% Petit Verdot, with the average age of the vines being 28 years. Unlike most of the growing region in the Médoc, they also have 124 acres of forest on the château’s property, giving them biodiversity that improves the health of the vineyard. The name Brillette comes from the brilliant shine that the little gravel stones give the vineyard on a sunny day—and it is this well drained, special soil plus a good amount of patience that makes this wine magic.
The cellar at Brillette was completely rebuilt in 2000, and now every variety from every parcel can be kept separately, allowing the winemakers to make the best blending decisions. The younger vines on the property are declassified into their second wine “Haut Brillette.” The grand vin, the Château Brillette proper, is aged for over a year in French oak, 30–50% of which is new. While 2004 did not get the press that 2005 did, I love the fresher style and lower alcohol (only 13%) that this cooler vintage delivers, especially now after 18 years have passed.
We decanted this wine about an hour before drinking it, and I find this little ritual saves time once the food is plated… nothing is worse than letting a great steak get cold while messing with a corkscrew. This wine still has strong purple color and a great nose of cassis from the Cabernet, a touch of mint from the cool 2004 harvest, and a subtle frame of tobacco from the élevage. In the mouth, the wine is medium bodied with a silky texture from time, not alcohol. The most impressive part of the wine is the finish, which not only has good cassis fruit, but also that special minerality that only comes from la terre graveleux of the Médoc. This clean earthiness is carried along by fresh acidity, allowing the wine to cut the steak and giving it significant length.
If you love aged, medium-bodied Bordeaux, this is one not to miss! A toast to you!