Checking in on 2023 Burgundy: Abundance for Enjoyment

While Burgundy remains a moving target for many, with a constant drive to recreate their "Eureka!" moment, restocking your cellar may be a bit easier thanks to the 2023 vintage. Following a successful 2022, the region was once again blessed in 2023 with a warm and relatively weather-tragedy-free growing season. 2023 was the warmest year on record thus far, with key rainfall in early August that helped the vines complete veraison and achieve consistent ripeness. While 2022 had more predictable yields, 2023 saw a harvest around 30% higher than normal, forcing winemakers to be selective both in the vineyard and on the sorting table. If there is a key word repeated to describe the 2023 vintage, it is abundant.

While 2022 is considered more consistent across the board, 2023 is a bit more varied, making the producer key in selecting which wines to add to your collection. However, after tasting a great deal of 2023s, I have found the quality of the vintage to be very good, and the expected top producers have once again delivered wines that we can all enjoy.

Recently, I had the opportunity to attend the Grand Tasting of the San Francisco edition of La Paulée, a yearly celebration of all things Burgundy. After spending the afternoon sampling wines from all over the Côte d'Or, I found that, in spite of the warm year, the whites were lively, with bright freshness and excellent structure. The 2023 reds are also very charming, offering a pleasing ripeness that will be perfect for early- to mid-term aging and enjoyment. While the 2023s may not have the structure for long-term aging of the 2022 or 2020 vintages, they are very enjoyable, with round, ripe fruit and ample texture and rich weight on the palate.

Lastly, the high-yielding vintage also benefits consumers, as it has helped keep prices relatively steady, a rarity in Burgundy these days. Looking ahead, the 2024 vintage saw yields down between 50% and 80%, followed by another small harvest in 2025, rounding out three small harvests in five years (including 2021). Stocking up on the ample supply of 2023s while you can is therefore an excellent strategy to prepare for future short supplies. Here are some that I would recommend:

In Stock Highlights: 2023 Burgundy

2023 Domaine Comte de Vogüé Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru $899.99 VN95-97, DC95, JM92-95, BH92-95

2023 Domaine Comte de Vogüé Musigny Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes $1,139.99 VN97-99, JM95-98, BH95-97, TA97

2023 Domaine Coquard Loison Fleurot Clos Saint Denis Grand Cru $419.99 VN94-96, JM94-96, BH91-94

2023 Domaine Coquard-Loison-Fleurot Echézeaux Grand Cru $329.99 JM95-97, VN93-95, BH92-94

2023 Domaine Denis Mortet Chambolle Musigny 1er Cru "Beaux Bruns" $259.99 VN93-95, JM91-94, RP91-93, BH90-93

2023 Domaine Denis Mortet Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru "Les Champonnets" $229.99 JM93-95, BH91-93

2023 Domaine Dujac Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru(1.5L) $1,999.99 VN95-97, JM95-97, RP94-96, BH93-96

2023 Domaine Dujac Clos de la Roche Grand Cru $899.99 VN96-98, JM95-98, RP94-96, BH93-96

2023 Domaine Dujac Clos-St-Denis Grand Cru $899.99 RP94-96, JM93-96, BH94-96, TA96

2023 Domaine Dujac Clos-St-Denis Grand Cru(1.5L) $1,899.99 RP94-96, JM93-96, BH94-96, TA96

2023 Domaine Dujac Echézeaux Grand Cru $799.99 JM96-98, RP93-95, BH93-95, VN92-94