Domaine de Baraillon and the Best Brandy-Producing Land in the World
K&L Spirits Buyer David Othenin-Girard.
The little farm to the west of Lannemaignan in southwestern France has long felt like a special secret. Finding a place like this in the spirits industry is like discovering a new star or planet for astronomers; except as soon as we start talking about it, we risk ruining it. That’s why for the last 10 years we’ve quietly brought the wonderful brandies of Domaine de Baraillon to K&L as exclusive selections. But all the while we’ve been mindful that this incredible polyculture farm was at risk of becoming overrun by buyers from every corner of the earth. Simply put, the Claverie family, who owns the farm, is sitting on the absolute finest brandy-producing land in the world. The sub-region, running down the border of the departments Landes and the Gers between Mauleon and Arthez, holds the vast majority of the highest quality producers of Armagnac. Known locally as “Le Grand Bas-Armagnac,” this area consistently produces the finest brandies on earth. Whether its success is due to the soils, the weather, the history, or the culture of the area isn’t completely clear, but there’s no question the concentration of excellent producers is highest in this area.
The Claverie family has farmed this land since at least 1748, tending to vines, ducks, pigs, and other agricultural pursuits. The current proprietor, M. Claverie, has been working the land since childhood. His daughter Laurence has been at his side since graduating from viticulture and oenology school more than two decades ago. Together they tend 16 hectors of vines planted to equal parts Folle Blanche, Ugni Blanc, and Baco. They have not changed much since M. Claverie was young and don’t plan on it. We’ve been champions of their style for more than a decade, but recently the domaine has indeed come under pressure from buyers all over the world. They’ve been forced to set up allocations and prohibit almost all large orders to manage their stocks going forward. Luckily, we’ve built an incredible relationship with them, and, as a show of support, we’ve amassed what is likely the most extensive collection of vintage Baraillon outside of their own cellars, buying our maximum allocation for every available vintage. They’ve also reciprocated by offering us a few single cask selections and larger positions of key vintages that have long been identified here as special.
2002 Domaine de Baraillon 21 Year Old Folle Blanche Bas-Armagnac (750ml) $89.99
This awful vintage in Bordeaux had quite a different manifestation in Gascogne, despite the regions only being about a two-hour drive apart. The brandies from the Folle Blanche grape in 2002 are excellent and full of zesty fruit coupled with deep resinous oak.
1998 Domaine de Baraillon 25 Year Old "Folle Blanche" K&L Exclusive Bas-Armagnac (750ml) $99.99
Extremely balanced and offering nuance well beyond its price and age, the 1998 is a perfect dichotomy of sweet and savory flavors.
1987 Domaine de Baraillon 36 Year Old K&L Exclusive Armagnac (750ml) $119.99
The exceptional '87 vintage has become prolific in the Gers and elsewhere in high quality growing regions in Armagnac. Just now reaching maturity this wonderful brandy has everything you want from middle aged Armagnac. The nose is this wonderful balance between rich exotic savoriness and dried sweet fruit. Cigar box, cedar, sandalwood covered in stewed fruits, candied plums and dark black tea. On the palate we get subtle nuttiness and wonderful oxidized fruit (slight oloroso note), which build into a big spicy finish. Exhibiting great texture despite the relatively low proof and a building dryness as it travels the palate. It's so drinkable and appealing its down right dangerous. Stay at home with this one.
1985 Domaine de Baraillon 38 Year Old K&L Exclusive Single Barrel Cask Strength Bas-Armagnac (750ml) $134.99
This single barrel 1985 brandy is one of the finest spirits we tasted on the entire trip. A mix of Ugni Blanc and Baco, the nose is absolutely hypnotizing: Port-like with stewed fruits and sandlewood (think an exotic Highland single malt, but remember it's definitely NOT single malt). The palate follows up with toffee, vanilla, more fruit, and stunning richness—with spice and heat on the finish that prevent the weight from becoming overly flabby. It is spellbinding brandy, although it's not for everyone, with its earthy and somewhat wild mid-palate. Still, it's destined to go down as one of the best Armagnacs we've ever carried. Baraillon Armagnac is where bucolic romanticism and quality collide.
1986 Domaine de Baraillon 37 Year Old K&L Exclusive Bas-Armagnac (750ml) $129.99
1984 Domaine de Baraillon 39 Year Old K&L Exclusive Bas-Armagnac (750ml) $139.99
1933 Domaine de Baraillon K&L Exclusive Bas-Armagnac (750ml) $1000.00
What happened in 1933? Construction began on the Golden Gate bridge. The United States voted to give the Philippines its independence. Hitler was in charge of Germany. FDR introduced his New Deal. And....the Claverie family distilled this batch of Armagnac at their small farm in Gascony and there it sat until we had it bottled for K&L 80 years later. The 1933 Baraillon has a fragrant nose of spicy ginger with loads of oak barrel accents. The flavors are alive and full of fruit, brimming with wood spices and even a bit of pine or cedar. The finish is almost like sandlewood or incense. This is a historic brandy, incredibly limited, and only available at K&L!
1900 Domaine de Baraillon K&L Exclusive Vintage Armagnac (750ml) $1700.00
At first, the idea of importing an Armagnac made 120 years ago seemed like a joke, a fun idea if it could actually be done. When Mr. Claverie allowed us to actually taste it our jaws hit the cement floor in the warehouse. If you had to spend some serious cash on an ultra-splurge bottle, this is the one. Incredibly rich, with layers of toffee, fruit compote, port-like viscosity, and waves of earthy accents, the 1900 Baraillon is actually worth the high price simply because it's historic. It's ridiculously rare and represents the hard work of the Baraillon family, decades before the current family members were even born! It was taken out of barrel at some point in the mid-1950s and has been resting in a glass demijohn ever since. We purchased six bottles for six lucky customers. This isn't about luxury or bling-bling brand imagery. This is some serious brandy for those looking to revel in it.