Holiday Buying Guide: Bordeaux for Ballers and Budgets
Clyde Beffa Jr. is a legend around these parts. Co-owner, co-founder, K&L visionary, and Bordeaux cheerleader. He and childhood friend Todd Zucker started K&L 48 years ago, and today we’re all living the K&L dream because of him. He’s been traveling to Bordeaux every year for 40+ years, and he knows everyone! He hosts numerous events to bring the winemakers to us in California. Clyde’s ethos is that Bordeaux can be an everyday wine; you just have to know where to look. He finds perfectly aged bottles from vintages overlooked by critics, and we get to reap the rewards—by which I mean drinking great aged Bordeaux at affordable prices.
Here’s what he’s gifiting this holiday season.
Stocking Stuffer
2017 Haut Charmes, Sauternes (375ml) (Elsewhere $15) $12.99 We have been carrying this gem since the 2005 vintage—then we said: “Haut Charmes is a very special Sauternes bottling, made from the younger vines of the region's most legendary château. While we aren't allowed to reveal the source, it's safe to say its location in the Ciron Valley exposes the Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon fruit to conditions perfect for the development of botrytis. Charming, elegant, and an exceptional value for what's in the bottle; Wonderful pineapple and coconut aromas that follow to the palate. Stunning wine just like its big brother. This is the best sticky value in the world, and we think if you knew its provenance you'd buy it by the case!”
Nothing has changed except the vintage and the source. Once it came from the most famous Sauternes property, and now it comes from the second most famous Sauternes property—and the price has hardly fluctuated. 2017 is an exceptional Sauternes vintage, like 2001, 2005, 2007, 2009, 2011, 2013, and 2015. Seems like the odd years win in this region. I love 2017 for its fine acidity and balance. You can drink it with a fruit dessert or flan, but do try it with Foie Gras or even chilled down before dinner.
Party in a Bottle—Magnums That Is
As the late, great Anthony Barton would often say: “The magnum is the perfect size for dinner for two people—if one doesn’t drink!” I totally agree! I have two picks here—one for the budget party and one for the serious wine lover party.
1998 Peyrabon, Haut-Médoc (1.5L) $39.99 This is a property very close to Pauillac. It's one to watch out for, now and in the future. These wines are well-made, value-driven, with good depth and length. Proprietor Patrick Bernard owns 50 hectares of gravel soils and with the aid of winemaker Xavier Michelet, produces elegant, silky, and vibrant Left Bank wines that won't break the bank. For anyone curious about aged claret, this is the perfect introduction, and longtime Bordeaux fans will find everything they're looking for in this unbeatable value star. Their top wine Fleur Peyrabon is actually in Pauillac. This 25-year-old wine is at its peak—sweet and delicious with earthy notes. This is old school Bordeaux at its best—hurry-we are almost out.
2016 Lafon-Rochet, St-Estèphe (1.5L) $119.99 A very fine northern Médoc vintage—perhaps the third-best vintage of the 21st Century in Bordeaux. This property is very close to Cos Estournel, and their wines are getting better and better. Here is a fine cellar candidate for 20+ years, but it can be enjoyed now after decanting and serving with a prime rib or T-bone steak. 95 points, Antonio Galloni, Vinous: "A sleeper in this vintage, the 2016 Lafon-Rochet is positively stellar. Bright, translucent and super-expressive, the 2016 has so much to offer. Lavender, tobacco, cedar, mint, and dried herbs give the 2016 striking aromatic top notes to play off the darker fruit flavors. The 2016 is pure class. Don't miss it." (12/2018)
Money-Is-No-Object Gift
I have been a big fan of Château Ducru-Beaucaillou since I first bought their 1970 vintage in 1973. I first visited this magnificent château in 1985 and met Jean-Eugene Borie (his wife still lives in the château at almost 100 years old.) Over the years I have collected many vintages of this great St-Julien estate—one perfect bottle I had was 1945 (my vintage), and the bottle came directly from the cellars of Ducru-Beaucaillou. We have quite a few vintages of this fine estate in stock and pre-arrival. The present owner Bruno Borie is a very good friend of mine and of K&L as a whole. As an aside—if you ever get invited to a meal at Ducru, accept on the spot! It will surely be very memorable—especially if you eat in the awesome kitchen with Bruno cooking! Three vintages in stock are completely different—mainly because of their age, but they are all fantastic.
1975 Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien (lightly scuffed label) $259.99
1988 Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien $329.99
2019 Ducru-Beaucaillou, St-Julien $239.99
The 1975 and 1988 Ducrus were quite tannic and backward in their youth, but that sweet St-Julien fruit emerged after 20+ years and now they are drinking fabulously. I absolutely love the 1988 and have enjoyed several bottles in the past two years. Perfect with a venison or beef dish. The 2019 will be a legendary vintage for the property. And Jeb Dunnuck is right on, saying: “100 points—The wine of the vintage in St-Julien, if not all of the Médoc, the 2019 Château Ducru-Beaucaillou is based on 80% Cabernet Sauvignon and 20% Merlot, aged in 100% new French oak, that hit a natural alcohol of 14.2% with a monster IPT (number of tannins) of 88. It's certainly one of the most concentrated St-Juliens, revealing a dense purple hue to go with a stacked bouquet of crème de cassis, freshly sharpened pencils, damp clay, tobacco, and hints of spring flowers. Concentrated, full-bodied, and powerful, it has incredible tannins, flawless balance, and a gorgeous finish.”
Gifts Under $50
2019 Gloria, St-Julien (Elsewhere $60) $44.99
Neil Martin 96 points: “The 2019 Gloria has a compelling nose: black fruit, crushed rocks, tobacco and very subtle marine scents that are all beautifully combined. Perhaps the most precise and delineated nose among an impressive array of St-Juliens this year. The palate is medium-bodied with a lively opening. A touch of soy infuses the black fruit; fine-boned with wonderful sapidity on the finish. Extraordinary length. Serious.”
I have followed this property since the mid-1970s when I tasted their magnificent 1966 and 1967 wines. I still have a few of these bottles and they are still superb. Why do I seem to love everything St-Julien? Maybe it is because this small region produces some of the best Bordeaux wines (and value wines) year in and year out. Gloria has always been a super-value Bordeaux since Henri Martin owned the property in the ‘60s. The aformentioned Ducru, the three Léovilles, Beychevelle, Branaire Ducru, Gruaud-Larose, Talbot.... all of these estates always seem to make excellent wines. Back to Gloria, we have the excellent vintages of 2015 and 2016 coming in shortly as well as the 2020 vintage.