The Fresh and Feisty 2020 Bordeauxs at UGC in San Francisco
On January 27, K&L hosted the Union des Grands Crus of Bordeaux tasting in San Francisco at City View Metreon, whereover 80 châteaux send winemakers, owners, and representatives to pour their current releases and discuss the vintage. We’ve had the honor of being the Bay Area host since the 2005 vintage, and our 15th event brought us the 2020s. San Francisco is the last stop on the North American tour for the Bordeaux producers, and there’s always a festive vibe by the time they get to us. This was true as ever this year, and we all had a great time. See the video below for people’s reactions to the wines—there were a lot of happy Bordeaux lovers in the house.
The 2020s are particularly special wines for me as I had the opportunity to taste them when they were still babies in Bordeaux in 2021. We arrived in Bordeaux very shortly after Europe opened up again post-Covid lockdown, and so it was a memorable trip for many reasons… it felt celebratory after being isolated for so long, and we were well wined and dined by the Bordelaise who seemed happy to see some fresh faces! But it was the 2020 wines, too, that were well worth the trip. Extreme highs and lows in the weather somehow created a vintage that was extremely well balanced with ripe fruit and bright acidity. For Clyde’s full vintage report, click here. It was a unique opportunity to have been able to taste these wines right out of the gate after vinification, and now two years later in bottle. The same freshness that I loved upon first taste was there—these wines are full of life! The tannins have had a little time to settle, and some of the wines are already quite silky and approachable.
One of my favorites both at the château in 2021 and at the UGC in 2023 was 2020 Domaine de Chevalier Rouge, Pessac-Léognan $69.99. At the château visit, I noted that this was the first year that they’d fully converted their farming to biodynamic and organic techniques. I wrote that the wine was silky but structured and developed tons of clove and cigar spice with air. Notes of red fruits, chocolate, flower, hoisin, licorice, and minerality rolled out in layers as the wine opened up. Two years later, that same seductive complexity is there, and it’s still a baby. The primary red currant fruit is buoyed by sweet spices and scintillating acidity. The winemaker mentioned that the forest that surrounds the vineyard keeps the grapes cool at night and contributes to the delectable freshness that absolutely is present in the 2020. An elegant wine.
2020 Labégorce, Margaux $31.99 is delicious. They replanted their Cabernet Franc in 2010 and, starting in 2019, put more of that fruit in the blend. In 2020, the blend is 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 20% Merlot. Leafy notes and juicy red fruits. It’s very fresh, coming in at 13.5% alcohol. Complex and full palate that is redolent of leather and chocolate.
2020 Lynch-Bages, Pauillac $139.99 At the château, I loved the rich, savory complexity but noted that the tannins were a bit drying. Though still powerful, the tannins have integrated and the complexity is now on full display. The palate is delicious. Long and supple, with graphite notes, dark chocolate, deep black fruit. This is the first year the wine was made in the new winery.
2020 Ormes de Pez, St-Estèphe $29.99. Fresh, ripe fruit and savory concentraion on the palate with notes of spice, coffee, and cocoa. What a rich depth of flavor and a great price for top-notch winemaking by the Cazes family of Lynch-Bages.
2020 Léoville-Barton, St-Julien $94.99 The fruit is explosive! Long finish. Mouthfilling chocolate and cherry flavors. It’s fresh, rich, concentrated, and long.
Other favorites not tasted at UGC: Cheval Blanc, Lafite Rothschild, Montrose. I also liked the Clos d’Estournel Blanc. There’s much to love in the 2020 vintage, so we hope you’ll jump in and grab some for your cellar.
Thank you to all who joined us to taste the 2020s!