2004 Vieux Robin Is in Its Sweet Spot
Last week, Bordeaux guru/Big Cheese Clyde Beffa came to visit us in Hollywood to pour the Saturday Bordeaux tasting for our SoCal customers. We were thrilled to have him because he’s a wealth of knowledge and stories about the region–he’s been traveling there at least once a year for 40+ years, and he knows everyone!
The day before, he and I hosted an Instagram Live tasting of nine value bottles (listed below), each under $50 and some well under $50. Value Bordeaux is something that Clyde does particularly well because he knows where to look. He has many local sources (see above RE: knowing everyone) and can score special gems that have been tucked away in a château’s cellar, aging in perfect conditions. One of my favorites from the IG tasting was such a bottle: the 2004 Vieux Robin, Médoc $29.99. It was just hitting that perfect sweet spot for older Bordeaux: where it’s still fresh and alive, but all the hard edges have mellowed into tune. Last Friday (and even open after a few days), it was absolutely delicious.
The 2004 Bordeaux vintage is a great place to look for a value: it was undeniably challenging and anything but lauded by the critics! But those less-than-ideal factors mean that such vintages have fallen off the critics’ and collectors’ radar, and the good bottles still can be found with reasonable prices. Clyde calls them “off vintages,” and he’s legendary for finding the diamonds in the rough. The key is knowing where to look. At Château Vieux Robin, Maryse Robin, husband Didier, and son Oliver run the ship, and they’ve developed a reputation for wines you can count on for high quality, vintage after vintage. And, almost 20 years later, it’s clear they know what they’re doing: this exceptional Médoc wine is singing right now in 2023. It goes to show that winemaking skill is a huge factor in success, even during difficult years.
The 2004 Vieux Robin is lively and fresh, but still retains a rich, long profile and velvety tannins. Notes of black fruit like currant, raspberry, and cherry aromas on the nose lead to hints of cedar, truffle, and tobacco adding depth and complexity. On the palate, the wine's freshness was immediately apparent. With each sip, the flavors continued to evolve, revealing layers of graphite, spice, and a touch of earthiness, beautifully demonstrating the classic Médoc terroir. The finish was long and lingering; this has aged perfectly and still has life left in it. Not too shabby for a Cru Bourgeois that you can grab for $29.99!
The power of the Médoc is present here, and there is still structure to the wine. This area is characterized by gravelly soil that provides excellent drainage and heat retention, encouraging the vines to develop deep roots and concentrated, powerful fruit flavors. The maritime-influenced climate, with its warm summers and mild winters, allows for a long, steady growing season, enabling the grapes to ripen fully and consistently. All these factors have created a balanced, complex wine with a great deal of finesse.
Check out the other bottles on Clyde’s value list. Many of these were absolutely excellent. If you want to spend a bit more, do not hesitate to pick up the Labégorce, but it still needs time in your cellar. While you’re waiting, drink the Vieux Robin— it is ready to go!
2016 Caronne Ste-Gemme, Haut-Médoc $19.99
2015 de Birot, Côtes de Bordeaux $12.99
2015 Birot "Vintage", Premiere Cotes De Bordeaux $19.99
2016 Barde-Haut, St-Emilion $44.99
2015 Labégorce, Margaux $49.99
2012 Fourcas Hosten, Listrac $19.99
2009 Sainte-Marguerite, Médoc $16.99
2010 Fontis, Médoc $21.99