Notes from a Fanboy: New Zealand Riesling
A few months ago, I stumbled upon something surprising while browsing through one of my favorite internet wine forums. The site regularly suggests a new wine category or style each month to encourage people to expand their knowledge and try different types of wines. I was especially thrilled when I saw that they were promoting New Zealand Riesling, but was shocked when I saw how many of its members couldn’t find a bottle anywhere. From Seattle to Miami and nearly everywhere in between, wine lovers walked into their local wine shops only to be met by blank stares from their local sales clerk. “No, we don’t carry any, perhaps you’d like to try a Sauvignon Blanc instead?”
It's not surprising that Riesling is often overlooked in New Zealand, considering that the country's wine exports are dominated by Sauvignon Blanc, which accounts for 95% of exports, whereas Riesling is less than 1%. I've heard the joke that the only people asking for New Zealand Riesling are the New Zealand winemakers. To compound the issue, Pinot Gris has become increasingly popular in recent years, leading many producers to uproot their Riesling vines in favor of the more cost-effective Pinot Gris.
This is sad news for me, as New Zealand Riesling is one of the wine styles I find myself drinking more than anything else these days, thanks to the high quality and incredibly reasonable prices. Riesling is produced in nearly every major wine-growing region in the country and comes in a variety of styles. Most are off-dry with just a hint of sweetness, while others can range from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. With a variety of styles and QPR that is off the charts, I honestly can’t recommend these wines enough. Here’s a quick tour of New Zealand’s best Rieslings.
Marlborough
Anna Flowerday of Te Whare Ra.
If you’re going to talk about Marlborough Riesling, any discussion would be impossible without Te Whare Ra (TWR). Most K&L customers will know them for their elegant and aromatic Sauvignon Blanc, but Riesling is what TWR does best. In fact, back when Anna and Jason Flowerday bought the historic vineyard back in 2001, it was principally a Riesling vineyard populated with Marlborough’s oldest vines. This old-vine block is used exclusively for the 2020 TWR (Te Whare Ra) "SV5182 - Single Vineyard" Dry Riesling Marlborough $19.99 94BC. This wine is an absolute labor of love. Characterized by its focus and powerful acid line that accents notes of minerality and lime–this is a Riesling that is absolutely ageable and destined for greatness.
In addition to their dry Riesling, Anna and Jason also produce a stellar, medium-sweet Riesling, their 2021 TWR (Te Whare Ra) "SV5182 - Single Vineyard M" Medium Sweet Riesling Marlborough $19.99 97SK, 95BC. Composed of younger vine plantings on the property, it has all the impact and fireworks of their Dry Riesling but is beautifully sweet with a nearly perfect balance of residual sugar and electric acidity.
Another example from Marlborough is the phenomenal 2021 Fromm Riesling Spätlese Marlborough $19.99 95SK, 95BC. I drink more of this wine than any other wine we sell. Despite its Spätlese designation, the sweetness feels more like dead-center Kabinett. Gorgeously clean, focused, and bright, this is one of the most versatile pairing wines that kills with Szechuan and Indian cuisine alike. But there's nothing better than the Fromm Spätlese with Thai Curry—it is absolutely outstanding. I can't recommend it enough.
Central Otago
And so should you!
Beyond Marlborough, another region for exceptional New Zealand Riesling is Central Otago. It’s New Zealand's only land-locked, continental climate, and one look at Otago's snow-dusted vines in winter tells you all you need to know about how similar the climate is to Germany. Mount Edward's Duncan Forsynth is one of New Zealand's most vocal proponents of Riesling, and their 2020 Mount Edward Riesling Central Otago $19.99 is completely organic and biodynamic. With bright grapefruit and Meyer lemon aromas, this Riesling is all about power and drive. Called "an inspired and skilled Riesling producer" by Robert Parker's Wine Advocate, Duncan's trademark Riesling T-shirts demonstrate his loyalties to the variety.
In the heart of Bannockburn, Carrick is also beating the drum for biodynamic and organic Riesling in Central Otago. Sourced from Arthur's vineyard on the Bannockburn slope, the 2020 Carrick Riesling Bannockburn Central Otago $16.99 shows a little riper than the Mount Edward, and with 19g of residual sugar, there's just enough sweetness to balance the full-throttled acidity. With notes of orange blossom and lemon sorbet, this is a beautifully balanced Riesling that is astoundingly good at its price.
North Canterbury
Northern Canterbury is a wine region just outside Christchurch in New Zealand's Southern Island, featuring more marine influence and limestone-rich soils. The 2021 Koyama "Tussock Terrasse" Riesling Waipara $19.99 93BC is one of this author's favorite New Zealand Rieslings. Winemaker Takahiro Koyama left Japan to study viticulture and enology near Christchurch in 2003 and refined his Riesling craft at Weingut Keller in 2006. He launched Koyama in 2009 to focus on Pinot and Riesling from select sites in North Canterbury's golden mile. The Koyama Riesling is sweet at a Halbtrocken level, with notes of beeswax, jasmine, and juicy apricot. The palate boasts checked acidity and lime juice on the finish.
If you're planning on trying something new or need a Riesling for your dinner, take a look at the New Zealand section. The wines are stunners at their price points.