Cabernet Down Under

Cabernet Sauvignon has a long history in Australia dating back to the 1830s when it was introduced by Scottish immigrant and wine pioneer James Busby. Though a hardy and disease-resistant cultivar, early experimental plantings failed due to poor vineyard locations and lack of knowledge. It didn’t take long to get it right—the oldest surviving Cabernet Sauvignon vines are believed to be Penfold’s Kalimna Block 42, planted in the Barossa Valley in 1888. Today it is the second most-planted wine grape in Oz at 25,000 ha. Here are a few world-class renditions of one of Australia’s flagship varieties:

Coriole

Coriole Vineyards was founded in 1967, when Hugh and Molly Lloyd purchased the Chaffeys Road Estate in the eastern end of McLaren Vale. The vineyard was 12 acres of dry-farmed Shiraz planted in 1919, which the family rehabilitated and used to craft their first wines. Over the following fifty years, the Lloyd Family renovated the original farmhouse, expanded plantings, and earned innumerable accolades for the quality of their wines. But that’s not to say they have rested on their laurels. In 1985 they pioneered the planting of Italian varieties in McLaren Vale, starting with Sangiovese in ‘85, followed by Nero d'Avola and Fiano in ‘90. Today there are over 100 producers following in Coriole’s footsteps, growing Italian varieties throughout Australia.

Today, the estate is run by brothers Peter, the general manager, and Duncan, the head winemaker, all under the watchful eye of their father, Mark. While their mainstays are their excellent Shiraz, Cabernet, and Rhône blends, they also produce an interesting and eclectic mix of Sangiovese, Nero d'Avola, Fiano, and Picpoul. There are few wineries in Australia today that have the heart and soul that Coriole has. They remain a pillar of the grape growing community in McLaren Vale to this day and produce delicious, honest, and well-crafted wines that are incredible values.

2021 Coriole "Estate" Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale South Australia $19.99 92JH Sourced entirely from estate vines planted on terra rossa soils composed of red-brown earth over limestone. Classic elements of cassis and blackberry mingle with licorice and a delicate dusting of toasty baking spices—thanks to 18 months in French oak barrels. Medium-plus bodied with firm tannins and a lengthy finish, this hugely outkicks its coverage. Pair with your mum’s special meatloaf recipe, oxtail stew, or a rustic Moroccan tagine of pumpkin and chickpeas.

Evans & Tate

The Evans & Tate Cabernets, our newest, best-value Bordeaux blend, hailing from Western Australia’s Margaret River. An historic producer in the region and a staple among Australian wine drinkers, Evans & Tate have racked up 50 medals and 2,000 awards in their 50 years in production.

2018 Evans & Tate "Redbrook Reserve" Cabernet Sauvignon Margaret River $44.99 97DC 96JH 95WA The 2018 Redbrook estate is quite possibly the best Margaret River Cabernet I’ve tasted in the under $100 range. St-Julian fans take note as this harkens to a classified growth from Bordeaux. Summer blackberry bramble, cassis, and plum wrapped in velvety tannins embellished with hints of sandalwood and exotic spices—an exquisite balance of elegance and power. Aged 15 months in 22% new French oak. *Best in Show 2023 Decanter World Wine Awards* 

2019 Evans & Tate "Single Vineyard" Cabernets Margaret River $24.99 94JH 93BC Their 2019 “Cabernets” are a bit of a misnomer as the quality of Merlot was so strong in 2019, winemaker Matt Byrne contributed 52% Merlot to this usually Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc dominant blend. Sourced entirely from the Wildberry Springs Estate Vineyard in Northeast Wilyabrup, the 2019 Cabernets displays aromas of tobacco leaf, cassis, cherry liqueur and subtle anise. This is full bodied with plenty of concentration and acidity that ricochets around the palate. Moderately structured, there’s just enough tannin to frame the fruit, but there’s not an ounce of bitterness here. Ultimately a delicious Bordeaux blend that captures an interplay of fruit and earth in a well-composed offering from an excellent Margaret River producer. 

Yarra Yering

Nestled in the stunning Yarra Valley of Victoria, Australia, Yarra Yering is an esteemed winery that boasts a history dating back to 1969. Founded by the visionary winemaker Dr. Bailey Carrodus, this estate has a rich legacy of producing some of Australia's most revered and collectable wines.

An outlier in Australia, the Yarra Valley today is almost entirely planted to Pinot Noir and Chardonnay due to its cool, marine-influenced climate. But for generations Yarra Yering has crafted elegant, aromatically driven wines with structure and age ability. They are an iconic Bordeaux-blend producer in a sea of Burgundy varietals—not unlike Ridge Vineyards here in the Santa Cruz Mountains.

2017 Yarra Yering "Agincourt" Bordeaux Blend Yarra Valley ($84.99) 96JS 96RP 94JH From Sarah Crowe, named Winemaker of the Year at the 2017 Halliday Wine Companion Awards, this rendition comprises 75% Cabernet Sauvignon and 25%, Malbec aged 18 months in two-year-old French oak barrels. Rich plum, cassis, and redcurrant provide energetic lift and freshness. Spice box, graphite, cedar, dried sage, and soft violet florals glide into place with round tannins and precise structure—pure grace.

- Thomas Smith, K&L Australia Wine Buyer and Kerry Kirkham, K&L Writer & Editor