France's Roads Less Traveled

Keith Mabry, K&L France Buyer

My role at K&L is broad and varied, and while Rhône is my main focus, I'm also your guide along the back roads and byways of France's hidden-gem regions. Today's newsletter features four producers that I've been thrilled to bring into our Direct Import program and introduce to our clientele. Jura, Limoux, and the Roussillon take center stage in a four-stage roadtrip to some of France's most intriguing discoveries.

  • Direct-Import Stunners from a Luminary of Jura

  • Southern French Value Gems from Domaine Begude

  • Mas Karolina: Singular Roussillon Values

  • A Visit from a Friend: Roussillon's Séverine Bourrier

Be sure to visit our Local Events page on the K&L website for a comprehensive listing of this week's in-store tastings.

A Jura Visionary with Burgundian Inspiration

Henri Le Roy started out as a scientist in the pharmaceutical realm but soon realized his true calling lay in the art of winemaking. Attracted by the charm of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir varieties, he ventured eastward to the Jura in the early 2000s, since purchasing land in Burgundy was a prohibitive endeavor. The Jura's ancient soils, availability of his favored grapes, and proximity to his beloved skiing locales made it an ideal fit for Henri. Rather than indulging in veil-aged wines, the region’s specialty, he pioneered the ouille or “topped-off” style of winemaking from day one. His domain, Domaine de l'Aigle à Deux Têtes or “Two-Headed Eagle”, was named in homage to the Habsburg dynasty that reigned over the Franche-Comté region. Read more.

2022 Domaine de l'Aigle À Deux Têtes "Cuvée Griffez" Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Blanc $29.99 View
2022 Domaine de l'Aigle À Deux Têtes "Batard-Vernambaud" Chardonnay Côtes du Jura Blanc $44.99 View
2022 Domaine de l'Aigle À Deux Têtes "Les Clous" Savagnin-Naturé Côtes du Jura Blanc $34.99 View
2022 Domaine de l'Aigle À Deux Têtes "Les Clous" Savagnin Muscate Côtes du Jura Blanc $39.99 View
2022 Domaine de l'Aigle À Deux Têtes "Les Clous" Poulsard Côtes du Jura Rouge $34.99 View
2022 Domaine de L'Aigle À Deux Têtes "Charmes-Vernambaud" Pinot Noir Côtes du Jura Rouge $39.99 View

Domaine Begude: Family-Made, Value-Driven Wines from Southern France

In 2004, former finance workers James and Catherine Kinglake left London and purchased an ancient estate in southern France. Today, they organically farm 25 hectares in the Limoux appellation, with vineyards positioned approximately 300 meters high amidst the region's predominant clay-limestone soils. Situated under the Pyrenees mountains, this cooler, fertile terrain yields fantastic Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs, and Pinot Noirs. The Kinglakes, aided by excellent terroir and committed winemaking, have triumphantly run their small estate for two decades, demonstrating that determination and passion can yield success. Read more.

2023 Domaine Begude Sauvignon Blanc Pays d'Oc $12.99 View
2023 Domaine Begude "Terroir 11300" Chardonnay Pays d'Oc $13.99 View
2023 Domaine Begude "Sipiona" Gewurztraminer Vin de France (Orange/No Added Sulfites) $17.99 View

Rich, Luscious Roussillon from Mas Karolina

My visit to Caroline Bonville of Mas Karolina this year felt like a reunion, after having brought in her wines several years ago at K&L. Since I was first introduced to her exquisite collection by her cousin, renowned winemaker Olivier Bonville, Caroline's reputation as a leading winemaker has only grown over the last decade. Caroline has fully transitioned to organic farming, marked by her estate's certification in 2021. She cultivates 15 hectares, with a significant portion within the Maury appellation. The wines are sumptuous and laden with fruitiness, still carrying the distinctive charm that first bewitched me. Her delightful line-up proved again the complexity and distinguishing factor of Roussillon's traditional forte: fortified, long-aged wines. Read more.

2022 Mas Karolina Côtes Catalanes Rouge $14.99 View
2021 Mas Karolina Côtes-du-Roussillon-Villages $19.99 View
2006 Mas Karolina "L'Effrontée" Muscat de Rivesaltes (500ml) $29.99 View

A Week with Roussillon Winemaker Séverine Bourrier

This past week, K&L extended a warm welcome to Séverine Bourrier from Château de l’Ou across all our stores. Based in Roussillon, a French Catalan region adjoining Spain, Château de l’Ou is renowned for producing unique Syrah and Grenache wines. I had the privilege of escorting Séverine on a tour to meet our staff and the public at stellar wine tasting events in both northern and southern California. Séverine’s visit kindled great enthusiasm among our team and wine connoisseurs. We rarely spotlight our Direct Import producers like this, so we're deeply thankful for your support. This positive turnout reinforces why we take immense pride in these small-scale producers. Read more.

2022 Château de L'Ou Côtes du Roussillon Blanc (Previously $16) $10.99 View
2021 Château de L'Ou Côtes du Roussillon Rouge (Previously $16) 91 $10.99 View
2021 Chateau de L'Ou "Infiniment" Chardonnay Côtes Catalanes Blanc (Previously $25) 93 $19.95 View
2020 Château de L'Ou "Secret de Schistes" Côtes Catalanes Blanc (Previously $30) 95 $20.99 View
2020 Château de L'Ou "Secret de Schistes" Syrah Côtes Catalanes 94 $34.99 View
2020 Château de L'Ou "Compartir" Cotes du Roussillon-Villages (Previously $35) 94 $25.99 View
2019 Château de L'Ou "Grenache Rhapsody" Côtes Catalanes Rouge (Previously $55) 95 $40.99 View