Domaine Begude: Organically Farmed, Family-Run, Big-Value Wines from Southern France
Domaine Begude was created by James and Catherine Kinglake in 2004. Tired of working in finance in London, they fled to the south of France and bought an old estate where they put down roots. They went through the growing pains of learning the wine industry and navigating local government, all while starting their family. After 20 years, they have weathered the financial hardships of running a small winery, suffering through Brexit (they are still British citizens), and the expenses of their daughter starting college. It’s been a wild ride for sure, but James, along with his winemaking team, continues to make some of the finest bang-for-the-buck wines to grace our shelves year after year.
They now have 25 hectares in their estate, all farmed organically in the appellation of Limoux. The vineyards are planted around 300+ meters across the largely clay-limestone soils that make up the region. Sitting in the shadow of the Pyrenees mountains, this is a great cooler growing climate that is home to some of our favorite bargain Chardonnays, Sauvignon Blancs, and Pinot Noirs. All of Begude’s offerings are small-production estate wines that show what can still be done with the right drive and unending enthusiasm. It’s the Kinglakes’ great spirit, in combination with the excellent terroir and diligent winemaking, that has sustained this property for 20 years now.
The 2023 Domaine Begude Sauvignon Blanc Pays d'Oc $12.99 is all fermented and aged in tank. It is juicy and fresh with flavors of lemon, grapefruit, and fresh thyme. The acid is well balanced and the mouthfeel succulent yet round. It’s a weekend party wine that will surely enchant throughout the summer season with its fresh, inviting demeanor.
The 2023 Domaine Begude "Terroir 11300" Chardonnay Pays d'Oc $13.99 is brought up mostly in tank with a small amount in large oak barrel to add a bit of texture and weight. This is for Chardonnay purists who enjoy a good Mâcon-style Chard from Burgundy. Notes of white peach, red apple, and a light saline minerality show the integration of this weeknight warrior of a wine. Never heavy, this is the kind of Chardonnay where one glass easily follows another. I’ll have some of mine with that rotisserie chicken I picked up at Whole Foods, thank you very much!
A newer addition to the line-up is the 2023 Domaine Begude "Sipiona" Gewurztraminer Vin de France (Orange/No Added Sulfites) $17.99. The 2023 is a blend of 70% Gewürztraminer and 30% Chenin Blanc that sees about seven days on the skins. The wine is fermented all with native yeasts in tank before pressing and then ages for a few more months before it is bottled unfined and unfiltered, without any added sulfites. I like the direction here because the addition of Chenin this year mellows out the aromatic lift of the Gewürz while also bringing more fresh acidity to the party. For those who are fans of orange wines or just getting into the category, there is a lot to like here. Notes of Mandarin orange, kumquat, jasmine, and persimmon abound. This is drinking beautifully now and should be great through the summer and even better for a holiday meal pairing. (It’s perfect for Thanksgiving.. can’t believe I’m already mentioning that...)
For whatever your tastes, the Begude wines should definitely find a spot on your table. The Pinot Noir and Viognier are on the way and will expand this already pleasurable line-up with even more delicious options. Stay tuned!!