Strong 2023s from a German Riesling Master: Max Ferdinand Richter
Every year the arrival of the wines of Max Ferdinand Richter are my bellwether for the quality of the upcoming vintage from Germany. Not only are the Richter wines usually the first arrivals from each vintage, but they offer a snapshot of the entire Mosel Valley thanks to their wide range of vineyard sources. Max Ferdinand Richter, in my opinion, qualitatively ranks in the top third of all German wine producers—and, when you factor in their affordability, they end up being one of the best producers on a dollar-for-dollar basis alongside Dr. Loosen, Fritz Haag, and Dönnhoff.
The 2023 vintage in Germany has turned out to be very strong thanks to rains in August that revived the vines after a record-setting heat in early summer. The Richter style of wines perfectly integrates with the warm weather conditions, and the fruit on the 2023s absolutely sings while each wine displays its unique terroir.
Right off the bat I love the 2023 Max Ferd. Richter Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Kabinett Mosel $25.99. Himmelreich translated means Kingdom of Heaven and that’s very apt here since this wine is heavenly! A kaleidoscope of flavor explodes across the palate with zesty acidity and fresh, pure fruit. This wine is insanely delicious and perfect to sip this summer.
The 2023 Max Ferd. Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Kabinett Mosel $25.99 is always a more serious wine than the Graacher because it is sourced from a vineyard with a steep, rocky soil and great exposure to the sun; in fact, Sonnenuhr means sundial. This wine is more tightly coiled with fruit, spice, and a touch more petrol on both the nose and palate. Deep, rich and powerfully textured, Wehlener is always a big, complex wine, and the 2023 here is no exception.
Often overlooked, the 2023 Max Ferd. Richter Veldenzer Elisenberger Riesling Kabinett Mosel $25.99 is from a vineyard planted in 1815 by Franz Ludwig Niessen, a relative of the Richter family. This special vineyard was given to the Richter family by the Queen of Prussia for saving Prussia from the Napoleonic army. Fresh, bright, and light on its feet, the Elisenberg is inviting with invigorating aromas of fruit cocktail and spice. These three Kabinetts are all great, and each one has its own distinctive personality.
As sales of Trocken and Kabinett have grown, sales of Spätlese have dropped, which is unfortunate since these wines offer more complexity and depth than their lighter and less sweet Kabinett counterparts. The 2023 Max Ferd. Richter Brauneberger Juffer-Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Mosel $34.99 is stunning! This wine blew me away when I tasted it—so much pure fruit presented in a laser beam that fans out across the palate. The purity of orchard fruit framed against mineral notes and acidity are mind blowing. This is a great Spatlese!
Classic in style and structure, the 2023 Max Ferd. Richter Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese Mosel $34.99 rolls across the palate with brilliant fruit, spice, and subtle stone and mineral notes. A quintessential Spätlese.
Ratcheting up the volume, we have the stunning value 2023 Max Ferd. Richter Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Auslese Mosel $39.99, which is marvelously textured with rich apricot, peac,h and candied pear flavors juxtaposed against spice, minerality, and uplifting acidity. Wow! Whenever I taste a great Auslese I get reminded how sinfully delicious these wines are. This Richter wines is a flat-out steal at under $40.
If you love German Rieslings then you owe it to yourself to check out these wonderful wines from Max Ferdinand Richter.