Farella: Hidden in Plain Sight
The region of Combsville in Napa Valley even describes itself on the official vintners' and growers page as a hidden gem. Despite being just three minutes from downtown Napa, the region is somehow still off the beaten path for most visitors to the valley. Coombsville is one of the more recently established sub-AVAs in Napa Valley, becoming officially recognized in 2011. There is, however, a long history of grape growing in the region going back to the 1880s. To this day the iconic R.W. Moore Vineyard, planted in 1905, is still in production. It was however in the early 1980s that the modern era of Coombsville began and no winery was more instrumental in the founding of this AVA than Farella. Firstly, second generation owner, Tom Farella, wrote and submitted the petition that led to the creation of the AVA. But Farella’s importance goes deeper than simply filing paperwork.
Frank Farella (Tom's father) originally established the winery in 1977. The first wines were made from the estate in 1982, and commercially released wines in 1985. Many commentators at the time considered the very southerly location of the region at the base of Napa Valley, close to San Pablo Bay, too cold for growing Cabernet Sauvignon. At this time the neighboring regions of Carneros and Oak Knoll were very much known for Chardonnay, and planting Bordeaux reds here was somewhat of a gamble. However, the Farella family was convinced that the estate’s rocky volcanic soils and long, moderate growing season would ultimately produce complex and age-worthy Cabernet Sauvignon (as well as delicious Merlot and Sauvignon Blanc). Fast forward a few decades and Coombsville is bristling with world-class vineyards and has earned a reputation as one of the most distinctive and compelling terroirs in the region. Names like Caldwell, Meteor, Favia, Realm, Paul Hobbs’ Nathan Coombs Estate, Faust, Julien Fayard’s Covert Estate, Arrow & Branch, and countless more.
Like Coombsville itself, Farella is very much off the beaten path, tucked away against the foot of the Vaca Mountains at the eastern rim of the AVA. The winery is small and humble, shaded by old oak trees. You would never know it was there unless you were looking for it. The vines run down the perfect slope of a west-facing alluvial fan. On a clear day, from one point at the top of the estate, Mt. Tamalpais and the San Francisco skyline can be seen to the south. Another vantage point looks north all the way up the valley to Mt. Saint Helena some 40 miles to the north. The soils are a volcanic mix of rhyolitic and basaltic gravels that have cascaded down from the palisades above, interspersed with compressed volcanic ash. Combsville itself is a basin that sits in the caldera of an ancient volcano. As the slope of the estate flattens out the soils get heavier with some silty loam soils deposited over the millennia by numerous streams and creeks. On these richer soils you'll find the Sauvignon Blanc which excels on this site. Merlot, Malbec, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon make up the rest of the plantings upslope.
The winemaking at Farella is defined by the desire to create classically styled wines with structure, longevity and freshness. There’s no fancy tricks here. Just top-quality fruit, long barrel aging, and the modest use of new French oak. Tom Farella made the wines himself from 1991 until 2018 when young Ryan Pass was elevated to winemaker. Today, he still works with Tom at his side to continue the long traditions of the estate. A tasting at the winery will likely have you standing in the very not glamorous cellar, tasting wine with Tom or Ryan, and likely a bottle of something much older pulled from the extensive library. It’s a no-thrills (except the wines), old-school Napa visit that has become few and far between these days in a region so often defined by ultra-lux, highly polished and choreographed “experiences” that to be honest sometimes put aesthetics and sophistication ahead of what’s in the glass. If you’re looking for the real deal, you’ll find it here.
The wines are excellent from top to bottom. The pricing (given the quality, pedigree, proven aging ability of the wines etc) is also extremely reasonable. Here are my notes on the current wines we have in store from Farella:
2024 Farella "Estate" Coombsville Napa Valley Sauvignon Blanc $24.95 Entirely fermented and aged in stainless steel, Farella relies on the quality of the fruit alone for texture and depth and it doesn't disappoint. From day one this variety was a focus for Farella, and while so much acreage of Sauv Blanc has been torn out and replanted in the valley for much higher dollar value Cabernet, their commitment to this wine really shows in its consistent quality. Bright, vibrant, crystalline, the pure essence of the varietal. Extremely easy to drink!
2019 Farella "Estate" Coombsville Napa Valley Malbec $29.95 A really fun and unusual grape to find bottled as a mono-varietal wine in Napa. Again many commentators thought that Malbec wouldn't ripen in Coombsville, but working meticulously in the vineyard and limiting yields, means that Farella make a deliciously pure, elegant, quite red fruited, medium bodied Malbec that is one of my favorite wines they produce. Red and black currants, juicy plum, new leather, bittersweet baker's chocolate, some exotic spice notes. Polished fine tannins. Such a cool wine, and extremely well priced.
2019 Farella "Estate" Coombsville Napa Valley Merlot $39.95 Farella's Merlot is a staple for me, one of the best in the valley. I've been lucky enough to taste this bottling back to the early 1990s and it's a true stalwart. Quite a serious take on the variety with some real structure and savory aspects to balance out the soft mid palate flesh. Blackcurrant, Christmas cake spice, cigar box, subtle leather. Beautiful.
2014 Farella "Estate" Coombsville Merlot (Winery Direct Library Release) $39.95 For an extra special treat, we managed to secure a parcel of a beautifully aged Merlot directly from the winery’s library. With over 10 years in bottle this is the perfect way to experience how Farella's wines age so gracefully. There are still plenty of primary fruit aromas and flavors here, but also lovely bottle development characters like cedar, tobacco, and savory, dusty, earthy notes. The wine is beautifully integrated and in a sweet spot for drinking over the next 3-5 years+.
2019 Farella "Estate" Coombsville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $69.95 95JS Farella's Cab is always a benchmark for the appellation in my book. The wine is always reflective of the place and season without any heavy handed winemaking finger prints. The 19 shows some of the generosity of the vintage with quite bold, ripe fruit. Cassis, mulberry, cocoa powder, classic graphite notes and a slightly softer tannin profile than I'd typically expect from Coombsville. This is drinking beautifully even as a young wine. Give it a nice 2 hour decant and put it on the table with a seared hanger steak.
2021 Farella "Estate" Coombsville Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon $69.95 (Newly Released) 95TWI We’ve just received the brand new release of the 2021 Estate Cab and it's stunning. A drought affected season has even further concentrated the intense flavors these vines put forth. Crushed blackberry, creme de cassis, dried flowers, spice box, pencil shavings and again that tell tale dark graphite streak that I find so typical. Coiled intensity. Beautiful, fragrant wine with a long future ahead of it!