Baron-Fuenté: Seven Years on the Lees in Charly-sur-Marne

Kai Pedrino, K&L Redwood City Champagne Specialist

Charly-sur-Marne is about as far west as Champagne goes. It sits over the line in the Aisne, closer to Paris than to Reims, in the part of the Marne Valley where Meunier is king. Baron-Fuenté farms right alongside the river here, their slopes running down to the water. The two cuvées we've brought in show what patience and a good blend of Meunier, Chardonnay, and Pinot Noir can create in this corner of the region.

First up is the NV Baron-Fuenté "Quinconce" Grand Cru Brut Champagne $49.99; 92JS 92VN. The name comes from the cellar. En quinconce is the Champenois term for the staggered, sardine-tin way bottles are stacked to rest on their lees, and this one spends seven years there before disgorgement. That's well beyond the 15-month legal minimum for non-vintage, and far longer than most houses give their non-vintage bottles. This on its own is incredible! The only other non-vintage regularly aged to this point is the Krug. It's composed of an even third each of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Meunier, drawn from three harvests. Half the blend is perpetual reserve, and part of it is fermented in oak. The result is golden, with fine small bubbles. It's very brioche, with notes of citrus and white flowers on the nose. The Chardonnay brings refreshment, the Meunier a subtle savor, the Pinot the power, and the long lees age adds a creamy richness, with a faint toast from the barrels. Dosage is 7 g/l. The house pairs it with curry and spiced dishes, and the toasty edge makes that work. Don't miss it.

Antonin and Ignace Baron.

Next up is the NV Baron-Fuenté "Grande Réserve" Brut Champagne $29.99; 90JS, the house's signature and an absolute star at its price point. It's 60% Meunier, 30% Chardonnay, and 10% Pinot Noir, fermented in stainless steel, aged three years on the lees and finished at a low 5 g/l. On the nose it's rich with bruised ripe apples and a touch of floral notes. On the palate, it's very light and well balanced, with the Chardonnay lending lift. As a bonus, magnums $64.99 get five years on the lees and drink with noticeably more richness. Made for the appetizer hour: salmon tartare, grilled fish, or just having a glass with friends.

Both of these bottles are well deserving of your attention! Also check out some other great wines from Baron-Fuenté like the NV Baron-Fuenté "7" Brut Champagne $59.99; 93WE and the 2018 Baron-Fuenté "Rebelle" Brut Nature Champagne $49.99; 95WE!

Cheers!

— Kai Pedreno, K&L Redwood City Champagne Specialist