Gilbert-Jacquesson: A Meunier Master in the Marne

Gilbert-Jacquesson: A Meunier Master in the Marne

Ben Niedelman (center) with the K&L New York team.

Fall weather always spurs me to start thinking about what champagne I'll be drinking this year, and no grape makes more seasonally appropriate sparkling than Pinot Meunier. Something about the way a great bottle of Meunier contains cinnamon spice, baked apples, and honey sounds like the perfect recipe for a holiday dinner, and there's no winemaker I'd rather trust with my Meunier than Jean-Baptiste Gilbert-Jacquesson. These are wines that scream of quality, warmth, and value, and they should be on every champagne lover's wish list this year.

NV Gilbert Jacquesson "Cuvée Tradition" Blanc de Noirs Brut Champagne $29.99 Every part of this champagne has been crafted to showcase Jean-Baptiste's mastery of the Meunier grape. From the moment you first smell the exuberance of the baking spice-and-fruit driven nose, you know you've found a winner. The rich, toasty mid-palate reveals hints of warm caramel that can only be found in high-quality champagnes made from 100% Pinot Meunier grapes. With an astounding 50% of the blend coming from reserve wines and aged three years on the lees, no other champagne on the market offers this much quality for the price. Don't let the price tag fool you, though: this is an extremely delicious bottle of bubbly masquerading as a weeknight dinner companion.

Champagne Gilbert Jacquesson domaine in Champagne, France.

NV Gilbert Jacquesson "Cuvée Selection" Brut Champagne $39.99 This wine is the newest in Gilbert-Jacquesson's stable, created as a nod to many Champagne producers' "house style." It's 40% base vintage 2020, with the remaining 60% reserve wines going back as far as ten years, so the edges of the vintage are smoothed in favor of a consistent, ultra-pleasurable drinking experience. The blend is 40% Pinot Meunier and 30% each of Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, giving the cuvée a fine, light bead backed by full-bodied, savory fruit notes. The long, lip-smacking finish leaves your taste buds begging for more.

NV Gilbert Jacquesson "Cuvée Prestige" Brut Champagne $39.99 The Prestige has earned its place as Jean-Baptiste's top cuvée; using reserves of a very special Pinot Meunier aged in a solera started in the 2000s and spending years on the lees gives this wine a unique expressiveness and that indescribable "iron fist in a velvet glove" quality I can never resist. The current cuvée is built on the 2019 vintage and is a 40/30/30 blend of Pinot Meunier/Chardonnay/Pinot Noir. It has all the beautiful, toasted hazelnut and honey notes that make it oh-so-irresistible now, but with the structure and acidity to reward cellaring. This is a "wow" champagne!

NV Gilbert Jacquesson "Cuvée Eugénie" Brut Rosé Champagne $34.99 This lively rosé is the perfect bottle to bring some extra sparkle to a gathering! The clear glass bottle ensures the vibrant color is eye-catching from across the room and the crisp finish keeps you coming back for more. The lovely pale pink color comes from a small percentage of still red wine made from old-vine Pinot Meunier and blended into the cuvée. Like all of Gilbert-Jacquesson wines, this 100% Meunier has vivid, spicy aromatics and crisp fruit. A perfect pairing for a warm evening or Thanksgiving dinner!

Also in stock: NV Gilbert Jacquesson "Cuvée Selection" Brut Champagne (1.5L), $69.99.

- Ben Niedelman, K&L New York Champagne Specialist