Cerbaiona Joins K&L Direct Imports: A Cult Brunello di Montalcino Producer
I’m honored to welcome the cult Brunello di Montalcino estate Cerbaiona to our Direct Import portfolio. Located on a prestigious Galestro ridge in Montalcino, Cerbaiona is world-renowned for its high-altitude elegance and uncompromising traditional winemaking. This is a massive milestone for our Direct Import program. In the world of Montalcino, Cerbaiona is one of those names that collectors and buyers discuss in hushed, reverent tones. As the national buyer for Italian wine, I have spent years tracking this estate, and bringing it into our DI portfolio is a career highlight.
For decades, Cerbaiona was synonymous with the late Diego Molinari, a retired pilot who made "lightning in a bottle" in a rustic, almost accidental way. But since 2015, the estate has entered a new, more disciplined era under Matthew Fioretti. Matthew didn’t come in to change the soul of Cerbaiona; he came in to find it. He moved the estate away from the "cult of personality" and toward a "cult of the vineyard." Under his leadership, the farming has shifted to strict organics, and the cellar has been modernized—not with new oak, but with state-of-the-art cleanliness and a fanatical devotion to transparency. Matthew is a scholar of the ridge, and he has spent the last decade proving that Cerbaiona isn't just about the man behind the bottle, but about one of the most privileged pieces of dirt in Italy.
The Cerbaiona Ridge: A Study in High-Altitude Galestro
If you look at the map of Montalcino, the Cerbaiona vineyard sits on a high-altitude perch at about 400 meters above sea level. This is the north where the air is cooler and the wines are defined by "nervous" energy rather than brute force.
The Soil: The ridge is a concentrated deposit of Galestro—the friable, schist-based shale that Sangiovese loves. This rocky, poor soil forces the vines to struggle, resulting in berries with thick skins and intense mineral concentration.
The Exposure: Unlike the south, which can be punishingly hot, Cerbaiona faces east/northeast. It catches the gentle morning light, allowing for a long, slow ripening period that preserves the high-toned aromatics and "salty" finish that define the site.
The Invisible Hand: Matthew’s winemaking is about subtraction. He uses large Slavonian oak casks to allow the fruit to breathe without being masked by wood flavors. The result is a wine that feels crystalline and pure.
The Current Relases
2021 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino (Pre-Arrival, Elsewhere $229) $149.99 99JD 97WA 95VN
2021 Cerbaiona Brunello di Montalcino 6-Pack in OWC (Pre-Arrival, Elsewhere $1300) $899.99 The 2021 vintage is shaping up to be a modern classic—a "cool" year with incredible structural integrity. This is, quite simply, a masterpiece of verticality. It opens with a piercing bouquet of wild strawberry, blood orange zest, and crushed violets, followed by a savory streak of iron and tobacco leaf. Palate: The entry is lean and athletic, not heavy. It has a vibrating saline core and tannins that feel like finely pixelated silk. Finish: It lasts for minutes, leaving behind a trail of flint and red fruit. This is a 20-year wine that represents the absolute peak of the 2021 vintage.
2023 Cerbaiona Rosso di Montalcino (Pre-Arrival) $39.99 94JD At many estates, the Rosso is a "second wine." At Cerbaiona, it is a statement of intent. Sourced from the same elite ridge, the Rosso is an explosion of high-altitude energy. On the nose, you get bright, crunchy red cherry, mint, and white pepper. It smells like a spring morning on the ridge. The palate is incredibly vibrant and "nervous" in the best way possible. The acidity is electric, making it dangerously drinkable. While the Brunello is for the cellar, the Rosso is for the table. It possesses that signature Cerbaiona "lift" and a savory, balsamic finish that begs for a second glass.