Mas de Libian's Biodynamic, Chillable Reds from Southern Rhône
One of my favorite producers in our Direct Import program is Mas de Libian, owned by the Thibon family and located in the Ardèche region of the Southern Rhône. The property has been in their family since 1670, but it was not until 1970 when Jean-Pierre Thibon built a winery, and they began to shift their farming practices towards winemaking.
Even though they are an historic property, Mas de Libian still falls a little under the radar. For me, though, they check a lot of boxes. They have long practiced organic farming and are now Demeter-certified biodynamic. They make fresh, vibrant wines that are accessible, quaffable, sumptuous, and compelling. It doesn’t hurt that the property’s terroir is a dead ringer for that of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, with its calcareous iron-rich clay soils and galets roulet (the rolled stones) sitting on the surface and radiating warmth back to the vines. With all these pluses, it is hard to believe that not a single one of their delicious wines retails for north of $30!
Their under-the-radar status may change soon, however: Hélène and her son Aurélien Thibon were the subject of a documentary called Weed and Wine. This excellent documentary follows two families—one in the wine industry and one in the weed industry. Both families go through a year of production with each discussing and living through the problems of navigating challenging economic markets, regulations, climate change, and family legacy.
For our purposes, the documentary portion that covers Mas de Libian follows the return of Aurélien to the family estate as he assumes the mantle of cellar manager while his mother Hélène takes a more focused view in the vineyards. They go through a particularly difficult harvest, but they work through it as a family. It is a celebration of what farmers and families do every year through the lens of this dynamic and interesting family. One of my favorite scenes in the movie is when the family is having dinner outside at the domaine. They are discussing their day-to-day lives, challenging each other, discussing family issues—basically forgetting there is a camera and just living.
Wines from Mas de Libian Available Now
2024 Mas de Libian "Bout d'Zan" Côtes-du-Rhône $16.99 “Bout d’Zan” is a personal wine, right down to the name. It loosely translates to “blame it on Zan,” a nod to Jean‑Pierre’s childhood nickname, inspired by his small frame and sun‑tanned skin. The wine itself is a classic southern Rhône blend—mostly Grenache with some Syrah—grown on clay‑limestone soils, hand harvested, fermented with native yeasts, and aged quietly in large oak for about nine months. This is so easy to like but it’s far from simple. There’s plenty of bright red fruit, a real sense of freshness, and just enough grip and spice to keep it interesting. It’s an ideal introduction to Mas de Libian’s style—and honestly, biodynamic or not, it’s just a wine that makes you want to pour another glass.
The 2024 Mas de Libian "Vin de Pétanque" Vin de France $13.99 is exactly the wine you want to have with family on a Sunday afternoon. It’s perfect to drink while you are waiting for the food to hit the table, or throwing a ball while playing Pétanque, its namesake lawn game that is akin to Bocce Ball. The fruit for this wine is sourced from young vines on the property. It is made with Grenache, Mourvèdre, Counoise, Syrah, and Vaccarèse. It is a delightful red to drink with a light chill. This is a juicy, fruity wine that belongs in everyone’s weeknight or Sunday afternoon rotation.
2024 Mas de Libian "Khayyam" Côtes-du-Rhône $19.99 This cuvée is called “Khayyam,” named after the 11th‑century Persian poet and mathematician who famously wrote about wine, beauty, and the fleeting pleasures of life—which feels pretty fitting once you taste it. The vineyards sit on red clay soils strewn with galets, those round river stones you usually see further south, and they give the wine a warmth and resonance that really carries through.
The blend is mostly Grenache, backed up with Mourvèdre and a touch of Syrah. Everything is destemmed, fermented in tank, then aged for about nine months in large oak foudres, so nothing gets masked or overworked. What comes through is aroma first—floral, lifted, and expressive—followed by a palate that hangs around in the best way, unfolding slowly rather than hitting all at once. This is one of those bottles you remember after the glass is empty. Thoughtful, expressive, and quietly powerful, it really does linger like a poem.
2024 Mas de Libian "Cave Vinum" Vin de France Blanc $19.99 A blend of Viognier, Roussanne, and Clairette grown on the estate’s north‑facing sites, which means the grapes enjoy fresh morning sun. That exposure keeps things cooler and gives the wine a real sense of lift and balance, even in a generally hot landscape. It’s fresh, relaxed, and quietly expressive—exactly the kind of bottle I like to open as an aperitif or pour alongside simple seafood. Clean flavors and an easy rhythm that makes you want another glass.
2024 Mas de Libian "Calade" Côtes-du-Rhône $29.99 “Calade” leans heavily into Mourvèdre, with a small touch of Grenache, all coming from the estate’s galet soils. That combination gives the wine some real weight and character, but it’s handled in a thoughtful, measured way. Instead of relying on a single vessel, the wine is raised across a mix of large oak, porcelain vats, amphora, and stainless steel, each contributing something different without taking over. The result is layered and grounded, with a lot of quiet complexity rather than obvious flash. It’s a serious wine, but not a rigid one—built to show its place and grape honestly, and to develop nicely in the glass.