New to K&L: Biodaynamic Rhône Producer Mas de Libian
When Rhône Buyer Keith Mabry and I first tasted the wines of Mas de Libian, we were so struck with their absolute vibrancy and aromatic beauty that we knew they should be part of K&L’s portfolio. They are biodynamically farmed, low-intervention, naturally made wines, but very clean and extremely well made. They skirt that fine line between “traditional” and “natural” wines (believe me, I get how inefficient and inaccurate these labels are, but they are shorthand for two styles of winemaking that ultimately come down to a difference in sulfur use)—meaning, they embrace the ethos of natural wines but are made with the technical skill so that there are no flaws in the wines. The winemaking, passed down from generation to generation in the Thibon family, is clearly top notch. The complex aromas leap out of the glass, and the wines dance on the palate—these wines are the ballet dancers of the Rhône Valley.
Shortly after we tasted the samples, Keith invited Mas de Libian to be part of our Direct Import program, so we are now able to offer their bottles at really excellent prices. As this is the beginning of what we hope is a long relationship with this family, we’d like to introduce you. Below, we have a tour of the vineyard and cellar from winemaker Aurélien Thibon and then an in-depth look at the winery by SF staffer John Majeski. We hope you enjoy these wines as much as we do. We think they’re quite special.
- Kate Soto, Social Media Manager & Blogger
“Our salvation resides above all in the work of our hands and the love of our hearts.” Such are the soulful, eloquent words of winemaker Hélène Thibon, who with her talented son Aurélien and other family members cultivates the sunlit, terraced vineyards of Mas de Libian in the Ardèche region of the Southern Rhône. She represents quite a celebrated lineage, having grown up on the property, a former hunting lodge, held by her family for over 350 years. She was surrounded by a sizeable scholarly library as well, as her paternal grandfather was the renowned spiritual philosopher Gustave Thibon (1903-2001). Not to be outdone, in a recent fascinating documentary by Deborah Richman Cohen called humorously Weed and Wine, Hélène was fondly and favorably profiled along with her son, as they worked another year and harvest in their French countryside vineyards. Their vinous ordeals were contrasted by the filmmaker with the problems faced many thousands of miles away by a legal marijuana farm in Humboldt County. Oceans apart, but both faced the challenge of bringing in the best crop!
By long applying biodynamic techniques in adherence to the rhythms of nature, Hélène has determinedly ploughed and fertilized her vineyards with the help of horsepower— first with Nestor, a strong Comtois workhorse, and recently, after he sadly passed, with another magnificent equine named with Bambi. Yes, Bambi the horse. They were both adored members of the family and labored long and diligently with true ‘equinimity.’
Meticulous work in the various plots throughout the year always promises a cleaner harvest and ideal fruit, as these wines are a testament to the care and integrity of the winemaker’s hand. The 2019 Mas de Libian "Bout d'Zan" Côtes-du-Rhône ($14.99) was cultivated on clay-limestone soils and is a bright, convivial (dare I say happy?) blend of Grenache and Syrah, showcasing a wealth of primary red fruits on the nose— cherries, raspberries, pomegranates, with fetching notes of licorice and spice on the silky smooth, medium bodied palate. An incredible value, and a wine to share and pair with virtually any Mediterranean dish. On the more complex scale, the 2019 Mas de Libian "Khayyam" Côtes-du-Rhône ($19.99) originates from Grenache, Mourvedre, and Syrah vines deeply rooted beneath the classic alluvial rolled pebbles of the Southern Rhône that retain the sun’s relentless heat and release it gradually during the night to improve phenolic ripening. Named for the brilliant Persian scholar, poet, and mathematician of the eleventh century who wrote some of the most stirring and evocative poetry to both women and wine. And this bottle is a testament to love, revealing an elegant aromatic profile with floral undertones and an expansive, juicy palate of red plums, blackcurrants, thyme and lavender, tinged with pepper and licorice pastilles. Balanced tannins and pliant acidity give this wine the promise of cellaring for a decade. Mas de Libian also produces a wonderfully sophisticated white Rhone, the 2019 Mas de Libian "Cave Vinum" Vin de France Blanc ($19.99) that, tasted blind, could have passed for a Châteauneuf-du-Pape Blanc. An inspired blend of Viognier, Roussanne and Clairette, this white wine is an ideal aperitif, laced with graceful aromatics and harmonious flavors of orange blossom, blanched almonds and sun-kissed stone fruits— white peach, apricot, and Asian pear. To your health!
- John Majeski, Sales Staff, San Francisco