2013 Cristal: Silky Elegance and Vibrant Refreshment

Of all the Grand Marque producers of Champagne, none are moving as fast at improving quality as Champagne Louis Roederer. This upward trajectory is even more impressive because of the high level that they have always maintained. Last week, tasting the newly released 2013 Louis Roederer “Cristal” Brut Champagne, I realized that Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon has once more found room to go upwards, even in a vintage less famous than the 2012 that proceeded it.

The 2013 Cristal is made from an estate within their estate, and sourced from 45 mid-slope, old-vine sites on the chalkiest parcels in the Côte des Blancs, Mountain of Reims, and Grand Valley of the Marne. It is composed of 60% Pinot Noir and 40% Chardonnay and, like the 2012, is treated to 32% barrel fermentation, mostly in very large oak uprights. It comes from one of the latest harvests in my career in Champagne, which did not start until October. This vintage has given the wine its brisk, zippy acidity, as the manicured, perfectly situated vineyard sites have given the wine creaminess and texture. It has it all.

Cinnamon and I enjoyed this with salmon en papillote that she prepared with a Dijon rub and fresh fava beans with parmesan. I love the hazelnut note on the generous nose of this Champagne, a signature of one of Roederer’s favorite grand crus, Verzenay. It also has great pullman loaf toast on the nose and in the mouth, and an incredible silky texture on the mid-palate. While this wine is light and seemingly effortless up front, one can find incredible depth and profound complexity when one spends time with it. It would be impossible to tire of this great Champagne. The back end is vivacious, bright and very long, telling the story of the chalk that it came from. While it is drinking great right now, the best years are in front of it, and given the track record of Cristal, this could easily be put down as a birth year wine for children born in 2013. It will last!

A toast to you!
- Gary Westby, Champagne Buyer