Weird Times Call for Soup and Wine

A few years ago I read an article in the New Yorker about a subculture of American survivalists—an ad-hoc collection of generally wealthy people around the globe who were preparing for the end of days by building extensively outfited bunkers. I was suspicious, I’ll admit it. It seemed like an exercise in hoarding and dystopian conspiracy theories. I’m not a survivalist—unless there’s an urban form of that species. I grew up in the San Fernando Valley and have lived in cities my whole life. I know how to live within a system that I expect to be running. But it’s weird now, right? Everything feels uncertain. I don’t have a bunker to turn to, but I have a cozy house and a family to feed, and my survival mode of choice has always been cooking copious quantities of comfort food. So I find myself now in “social distancing” mode with two young kids in a small house, while it’s been raining more in LA in a two week stretch than it has all year. Cooking and art projects and a lot of wine are my basic survival guide for the next few weeks. Who needs a bunker?

I started with a minestrone, because I don’t know if there’s anything more satisfying. Veggies and pasta and beans with an underlying hint of bacony umami in a tomato broth and a hint of pesto for brightness. Plus, Italian food will always be my comfort food. I adapted the recipe from the Culinary Institute of America’s Book of Soups, and I’ll post it below.

I paired it with the 2018 Cerasuola di Vittoria from Gulfi, a Sicilian winery led by the Catania family. Gulfi practices organic and dry farming, and has a wide range of excellent wines representing the classic Sicilian categories, from Etna to Nero d’Avola. As with all Italian wines, these are made for food. I love Cerasuola di Vittoria because the blend of the muscular Nero d’Avola grape meets its perfect match in the fragrant and lithe Frappato grape. The two balance each other out and make for a great symmetry. Gulfi’s Nero d’Avola is grown at nearly 1400 feet, providing great acidity to accompany the deep black fruit and herbal flavors with a kiss of salinity. It is light and flavorful—just right for my soup, and I think we kicked off this isolation period with aplomb. 

K&L is open and we have both shipping and local delivery options, so please reach out if you need us. If you have cooking-for-the-apocalypse recipes or kid art project ideas to share (Lord help me there are so many hours in the day), please reach out to me at k a t e s o t o @ k l w i n e s . c o m. Sometimes the worst things bring out the best things, and it’s filled my heart to see so many people trying to look out for each other. Thinking of you all. Here’s my recipe for Minestrone:

First make the Pesto. You’ll have some leftover to add to pasta later:

1 clove of garlic
½ c. of walnuts
1 container of fresh basil
Zest and juice of one lemon
½ c. grated Parmesan cheese
Salt and pepper to taste
Olive oil until the right consistency is reached (about half a cup)

In a food processor or blender, start with the garlic and walnuts and pulse until they’re finely ground (FYI you can use the traditional pine nuts, of course, but walnuts are cheaper, are good brain food, and have more uses--and they taste great in this pesto). Add the basil, lemon, cheese, and salt & pepper. Close the lid and begin to stream in the olive oil. Turn on the food processor and continue to blend until it achieves a creamy consistency—to your taste.

Minestrone:

2 T olive oil
1 oz pancetta or 5 slices of bacon
1 onion, diced
2 large carrots, diced
2 celery stalks, diced
1 red bell pepper, diced
1 zucchini, diced
1 russet potato, peeled and cubed
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 8 oz can of tomato sauce (or about 3 c. V-8)
1 Parmesan rind
½ pound of Orzo pasta, cooked
1 can chickpeas, drained
1 can kidney beans, drained
⅓ c. Pesto plus more for garnish
Salt and pepper to taste
Parmesan cheese for garnish

Heat a large pot to medium and add the olive oil. Let it heat for a minute then add the pancetta or bacon, cooking until the fat is rendered but the meat is not crispy. Add the vegetables (except potatoes) and salt and pepper. Cook until soft, about 6 minutes. Add the potatoes, the cheese rind, the tomatoes, and broth. Bring to a simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, about 30 minutes. Add the beans and pasta. Season the soup with pesto and salt and pepper. Serve with a dollop of pesto and sprinkled with cheese. 

- Kate Soto