In Champagne, the Wine Is Fine—and the Food Is, Too

While we are here in Champagne, the focus is upon (what else?) Champagne. We are tasting a ton of the 2019 vintage, which, thankfully, is much softer and more floral than the 2013s—the last vintage that I tasted in France. Those buggers had the acidity of grapefruit juice and I had to have my teeth re-enameled after returning to the U.S. The other “big thing” we have focused on is, of course, the food. While we do go to fine restaurants, we do more “common” food and, if it is a super lucky day, a home-cooked meal. This week, it’s been a combo of both. 

On night one, we walked to a restaurant, Chez Felix (the whole historical center of town, dating to the 1600’s, is devoted to cats). After a 10-minute walk in blinding wind and pouring rain, with temps in the 30s, we were admitted to the warm and toasty atmosphere of Chez Felix. I was not a happy pappy on that walk. Gary made me pose for a photo in the alley where the restaurant is, with a little stream coming down the middle of it. I think that I managed to smile. I was very thankful for the rain boots that I bought—my first pair since I was something like 10 years old. In any case, the picture here of the salmon with a bed of vegetables and puff pastry is from Chez Felix. Delicious and light and pretty healthy! 

Day two, not so much. We ended up at a “Fun Fair” with Jeremy Fluteau and, unlike U.S. carnivals, this one had full-out HUGE restaurants that are temporary set ups. I do not mean in a tent: full-out gigantic trailer-like structures! In any case, this one is known for their pork products, and they roast whole pigs in ovens outside of the restaurant at the entrance. No, I did not eat all of that. I couldn’t believe that our server asked if we wanted dessert! Where would I put it? In my shoe? 

Our next was a wonderful meal of St. Jacques with one of our reps, the very funny and friendly Adrien Carrard. A very fine night at an excellent bistro! 

Then we had two nights that were Gary’s and mine alone. During laundry night, we popped next door to have vegetarian pizza and Nicoise salad in a place that specialized in Tex Mex. It was very good and not too bad for you. I think. 

Then, we both wanted something simple, so it was off to another bistro to have mussels in broth (for me) and a salad for Gary. We ARE trying to balance these things. I’ve learned to have a breakfast without carbs (for France that means bread, croissants, etc…fruit doesn’t count). Lunch, every day, is “trunk lunch.” A jambon of some sort, a liter of water and some fruit. Toward the end of the week, it became much more gourmet with dinners in well-known, Michelin-star-rated restaurants. Poor me! 

Saturday night and the food was alright! Actually more than alright! After a trunk/park lunch of carrots, cheese (8E a wedge, thanks, Gary!), apples, and water, we both started to feel more lively and energetic. That changed on Saturday night at Les Bercaux, a Michelin one-star restaurant. Before my salad of asparagus, shaved ham, soft boiled egg and Parmesan, there was a truffle and soufflé egg starter, followed by a prawn and sweetbreads course. A very good start, yes? Then St. Jacques, yes, I can’t get enough of these. My main course was Black Angus steak. By this time, I was craving some red meat. At that point, I was feeling pretty full, so I just opted for Bleu cheese for the cheese course. Gary stuck it out and had 3 or 4 cheeses. Then, there was a Crème Brulee pre-dessert, thankfully, very small and my dessert of grapefruit mousse and then, a post dessert of assorted chocolates, which I could not even look at. I felt like the girl from “Willie Wonka and the Chocolate Factory,” who turns into a giant blueberry. The food was, of course, excellent, and I will be remembering this meal for years to come. For now, onto the diet train and Part Deux of carrots/apples and water trunk lunch!

–Scott Beckerley