2013 Surprise from Launois

The 2013 vintage in Champagne was the latest harvest I have seen in my career as a buyer. I’ll never forget how tired the producers were when they arrived at our tent event in Hollywood that year—it was mid-October and they had just gotten the wine safely fermenting before getting onto the plane. This year, for harvest 2020, some producers have already started, and it might be a record for earliest harvest ever. While an early harvest always has an advantage of ripeness, these later harvests have the advantage of high acidity and longer hang times. While 2013 is not a universally great vintage, it seems to be very strong for Chardonnay, as many of you who are Club members discovered with the 2013 Bonville. That Bonville was the fastest-selling Champagne in the history of the Club, and in my opinion better than their 2012. I think that Launois has had a similar success in 2013.

The 2013 Launois Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne is entirely sourced from the mid-slope of Mesnil, from old massal-selected vineyards planted in the 1960s, except for one perfectly exposed parcel in the Grand Cru of Cramant called La Justice, which was planted in the mid-1950s. La Justice, along with two vineyards in Mesnil used for the Launois Special Club, are the mother vines for all of the new plantations that they make at Launois. There is not a clone on the property. While the big ripe vintages like 2012 or 2009 can yield quite exotic wines, the 2013 has produced an electric, mineral-driven style on the dry side of most bruts.

Cinnamon and I paired this Champagne with sushi to-go from our local favorite, Kanpai in Palo Alto, and, as usual with high=quality Blanc de Blancs and sushi, it was a great marriage. The producers call wines of this style tout droit or “straight ahead” because of the excellent drive, acidity, and chalkiness. This made it go particularly well with the decadent rolls on the table. The wine is super fresh and lively, but has a very nice texture after more than six years on the lees. The bubbles are fine, like one would expect from a vintage Champagne. The surprise was in the length, which I found on par with Launois’ Special Club offering or any tête de cuvée from a big house. This was an extremely easy—maybe too easy—Champagne to finish over dinner, but should also keep for another decade or even more.

A toast to you!

- Gary Westby