Great Grower Meunier from Mousse

Nothing has quite the charm or depth of a Pinot Meunier-based Champagne done right. This past week I had the chance to drink an excellent bottle of the Mousse L'Or d'Eugene Perpetuelle Blanc de Noirs with pork rillettes as a little starter, and it certainly is one of the Meuniers that is done right. This entirely estate-grown Champagne comes mostly from the villages of Cuisles, Jonquery, and Olizy in the valley of the Ardre. This is the area where Aspasie is, as well as where Krug sources their favorite Meunier. This area is renowned for Meunier with excellent acidity and tension, and this shows through in the brightness and length of this Champagne. Some of the fruit also comes from Chantillon-sur-Marne, closer to the river.

This is a blend of 80% Meunier and 20% Pinot Noir, half of which is 2015 and half of which is a perpetual blend started in 2003 and has elements from every year between then and 2014, like a solera. All the vinification is done in stainless steel and the wine goes through malolactic fermentation. It is aged for 24 month on the lees, which still makes for a complete Champagne given the age and quantity of the reserve wines.

I loved the expressive, open character of this wine on the nose and in the mouth. The wine has lovely honey bread toast, comes across full-bodied and rich but snaps into focus on the back end, which is quite dry. It made a great match for the rillettes, and I think would also be great with any manner of pâté or cheese-based starters. It is the mix of bready breadth and mineral tension that had me coming back for more.

If you already love Meunier, or are just curious, this is certainly a Champagne to try.

A toast you!

- Gary Westby